THE GUIDE - The Rough Guide to Myanmar - page 314

OLD BAGAN
GoldenMyanmar Near Tharaba Gate, opposite Pyi Yar; map . A haven of local-style dining
amid the touristy restaurants which surround it on all sides. There's no menu, but set meals
(K3500) offer a huge spread of fifteen or so dishes including pork, chicken, beef and fish
and come with assorted vegetable sides (and condiments) such as tasty tofu, crunchy tea-leaf
salad and other Burmese delicacies. Daily 10am-8.30pm.
TheMoon NearTharabaGate 0943012411; map . Theoriginaloftheclusterofhomespun
little vegetarian cafés just outside Tharaba Gate. The veg-only menu (mains K1500-2500)
features all sorts of Asian and Western options including soups, salads, curries and stir-fries
- anything from mung bean soup and gazpacho through to deep-fried gourd, tamarind-leaf
curry and papaya soup with yoghurt. Daily 9am-9.30pm.
Star Beam Near Tharaba Gate, close to The Moon café; map . The original branch of this
well-regarded local restaurant, although most people now go to their newly opened premises
in New Bagan . Same menu (and prices) at both branches. Daily 11am-9pm.
Yar Pyi Near Tharaba Gate 09 2590 51436; map . Very similar to The Moon opposite,
serving up a big selection of vegetarian dishes (mains K1500-2500) with plenty of curries,
salads and unusual soups including banana, bean curd, and pumpkin and coconut. The
guacamole and pappadums (K2500) get good reviews although the signature hot-and-sour
bamboo shoots are a bit of a bore. Daily 7am-9pm.
MYINKABA
San Thi Dar Bagan-Chauk Rd, just past the entrance to the Gubyaukgyi Paya 09 3314
8397; map . Amid fierce competition, San Thi Dar carries off the prize for Bagan's most wel-
comingcafé.Themainlyvegetarianmenufeaturesallsortofwell-preparedlocaldelicacies-
pumpkin curry, tamarind-leaf salad, pickled tea salad, lemon salad - and there are also a few
meat options, all at ultra-competitive prices, with mains going for just K1500-2000. Daily
9am-9.30pm.
NEW BAGAN
Black Rose Kayay St 061 65081; map . Friendly little café (one of a lively little cluster
around the small pagoda-roundabout halfway up Kayay St). The menu (mains K2000-3500)
covers all the usual Thai, Chinese and Burmese bases including a few slightly unusual of-
ferings like Ayeyarwady butter fish and river prawn curries, competently if not spectacularly
done. Daily 10am-10pm.
Nooch Kayay St 09 4211 29920; map . A slightly funkier alternative to New Bagan's other
budget cafés, with seating either outside or in the faintly surreal purple dining room. The big
picture menu features a good selection of Asian cuisine (mains K2500-3000) turned out by
the resident Thai chef, plus evening barbecues. Daily 9am-10.30pm (last orders).