Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Backstreet Routes
On average, Venetians get asked once daily for directions to tourist destinations like
Piazza San Marco, Rialto, Accademia and Ferrovia (the train station) - and if you stay
awhile and walk confidently, you'll be asked too. Dodge the day-tripper crowds by tak-
ing alternative routes to your destination along minor
calli
(backstreets) that wiggle
through quieter Venetian neighbourhoods, often in approximate parallel with major
thoroughfares like Strada Nuova (Rialto-Ferrovia), Marzaria (San Marco-Rialto) and
Calle Larga XXII Marzo (San Marco-Accademia). Favourite local bypass routes are
Calle dei Fabbri
(San Marco-Rialto, behind Caffè Quadri) and
Piscina Frezzeria
(San Marco-Accademia, near La Fenice).
Entertainment
25
Teatro La Fenice
OPERA
A €90 million replica of the 19th- century opera house reopened in 2003, after it
burned down in 1996. Tours are possible with advance booking ( 041 24 24),
but the best way to see La Fenice is with the
loggione
- opera buffs who pass judg-
ment from the top-tier cheap seats. When the opera is in recess, look for symphon-
ies and chamber-music concerts. (
041 78 65 11;
www.teatrolafenice.it
;
Campo San Fantin
1965; theatre visits adult/reduced €8.50/6, opera tickets from €40;
tours 9.30am-6pm;
Santa
Maria del Giglio)
26
Teatro Goldoni
THEATRE
Named after the city's great playwright, Venice's main theatre has an impressive
dramatic range that runs from Goldoni's comedy to Shakespearean tragedy
(mostly in Italian), plus ballets and concerts. Don't be fooled by the huge modern
