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Powdered wigs seem appropriate in this baroque cafe, serving royal happy hours
since 1638. The upstairs restaurant charges a king's ransom for finicky fare up-
staged by Piazza San Marco views, but the gilded downstairs cafe serves a princely
€12 hot chocolate with
panna
(whipped cream). Reserve ahead during Carnevale,
when costumed Quadri revellers party like it's 1699. (
041 522 21 05;
www.alajmo.it
;
Piazza San Marco 120; drinks €6-25;
9am-11.30pm;
San Marco)
23
Osteria All'Alba
WINE BAR
That roar behind the Rialto means the DJ's funk set is kicking in at All'Alba.
Squeeze inside to order salami sandwiches (€1 to €2.50) and DOC Veneto wines
(€5 to €6), and check out walls festooned with vintage LPs and effusive thanks
scrawled in 12 languages. (
340 124 56 34; Ramo del Fontego dei Tedeschi 5370;
10am-1am;
Rialto)
24
Caffè Centrale
LOUNGE
Under moody Murano-chandelier lighting, you might spot Salma Hayek, Spike
Lee and sundry America's Cup sailors within these exposed-brick walls. Meals are
pricey and canalside VIP tables chilly, but Centrale draws La Fenice post-opera
crowds with signature foamy
spritz
(
prosecco
and bitters cocktails), midnight
snacks, chill-out DJ sets and occasional live jazz. (
041 296 06 64;
www.caffecentralevenezia.com
; Piscina Frezzaria 1659b; drinks €3.50-15;
7pm-2am Wed-Mon;
San Marco)
Top Tip
