Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
but not all they serve, and there's also a children's menu.
Daily, evenings only.
Astrofeyia T 24240 65182. Unusual (for Greece) dishes
like chicken curry or chile con carne (each €10) as well as
vegetarian options and more ambitious offerings such as
calamari with a cream, garlic and saffron wine sauce, all
served on a terrace with a friendly welcome and great view,
not far from the lower square. Daily, evenings only.
Ì Hayiati Right at the end of the main street, Hayiati
has probably the best view in Hóra (which is saying
something); an unbeatable setting for coffees and
traditional sweets like kazandibí . In the evening it's a piano
bar with occasional live music. Cocktail prices are steep, but
otherwise not too bad considering the location, though it
can be very busy. Daily all day.
Peri Orexeos T 24240 65186. Not a very glamorous
setting, on the lower square, by the bus stop, but the food
is a great deal better than you might guess from the fast-
food style menu. Snacks, sandwiches and burgers as well as
Greek standards, but also delicious, innovative salads and
dishes like honey-and-lemon pork belly, or paella-like fried
rice with tuna. Daily lunch & dinner.
10
ROUSSOÚM
Remezzo T 24240 65123. Tranquil spot by the little fishing
harbour and beach serving coffee and breakfast early, taverna
standards and spit-roast meat at lunch and dinner. Good
value, and frequent live music in the evenings . Daily all day.
Northern Alónissos
A single road runs northeast from Patitíri up the spine of the island, giving access to
beaches, almost exclusively on the east coast. The first turning, though, heads
westwards to Tsoukaliá , a scruffy cove signed as an archeological site; there was an
ancient kiln here, and pottery continued to be made until recently, so thousands upon
thousands of potsherds strew the closed, fenced site and beach.
First of the east-coast beaches are Miliá and Khryssí Miliá : the former is busy, with
white pebbles, piney cliffs, a kantína and watersports in summer; the latter sandy and
beautiful, and hence very busy, with loungers and beach bars. Next up is scenic
Kokkinókastro , named for the red-rock cliffs which overlook it. Pebbles on a red-sand
base extend both sides of a promontory, and there's a seasonal bar,. Another road leads
to Leftós Yialós and Tzórtzi Yialós : the pretty white-pebble beach at Leftós, with its
tavernas and loud beach bars, attracts plenty of day-trip boats; Tzórtzi is smaller and
less attractive, but much quieter.
STENÍ VÁLA , about halfway up the east coast, is the biggest settlement away from the
island's southern corner, though still barely a village. There are plenty of rooms, while
the harbourfront shops and tavernas attract yachts and day-trip boats. A long pebble
beach - Glýfa - lies immediately north, and a better, partly sandy one, Áyios Pétros , is a
ten-minute walk south. KALAMÁKIA , the next hamlet north, has no beach but does
have a timeless fishing-port feel and some great waterfront tavernas . At Áyios
Dhimítrios , the final beach easily accessible by road, brilliantly white pebbles stretch
around both sides of a narrow point; the south-facing side has loungers and a couple of
café/bars, the other is quite undeveloped. Yé r a k a s , almost at the island's northern tip, is
the end of the road and feels like it; there's a tiny fishing harbour in the deep bay and a
dirty-white pebble beach where a snack truck parks in summer - the water, however, is
spectacularly clean and clear.
ACTIVITIES NORTHERN ALÓNISSOS
Scuba diving There's a good diving outfit, Ikion Diving ( T 24240 65158, W ikiondiving.gr), at Stení Vála.
ACCOMMODATION AND EATING
Eleonas Leftós Yialós T 24240 66066. Set in an olive
grove immediately behind the beach, this is the better of
the popular tavernas at Leftós Yialós. Alónissos pies (from
€8) are their speciality, from excellent plain cheese to more
exotic octopus and goat varieties. Prices are relatively high
but portions big - a single pie and a salad makes a
substantial lunch for two. Daily lunch & dinner.
Margarita Kalamákia T 24240 65738. The best of four
tavernas lined up along the quayside, each with its own
fishing boat, Margarita serves excellent fish and mezédhes.
They also have sim ple a/c rooms out back. Daily lunch &
dinner. Rooms €50
Milia Bay Hotel Apartments Miliá T 24240 66032,
W milia-bay.gr. Great position above Miliá beach, where
 
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