Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
5
THE BATTLE OF SALAMIS
Perhaps the main reason for heading to Salamína is for the boat trip itself, through an
extraordinary industrial seascape of docks and shipworks. The waters you cross were the site of
one of the most significant
sea battles
of ancient times; some would say of all time, given
that this was a decisive blow in preventing a Persian invasion and allowing the development
of Classical Athens, and with it modern Western culture.
In 480 BC, the Greeks were in full retreat from the vast Persian army under Xerxes, following
the defeat of the Spartans at Thermopylae. Many Greek cities, including Athens, had been
sacked and burned by the invaders - indeed smoke from the ruins on the Acropolis probably
formed a backdrop to the
Battle of Salamis
. The Greeks had roughly 370 triremes supplied
by around twenty cities, the bulk from Athens, Corinth and Aegina; the Persian fleet was twice
the size, with heavier ships, but even more diverse, with many from subject nations whose
loyalty was questionable.
Through false information and strategic retreats, the Greeks managed first to tire many of the
Persian crews - who rowed all night to cut off a non-existent escape attempt - and then to
lure them into the narrow strait off Salamína. Crowded in and unable to manoeuvre, and with
the wind in the wrong direction, the Persians found themselves at the mercy of the more
nimble Greek triremes, and the battle eventually became a rout. Some two hundred Persian
ships were sunk, against forty-odd on the Greek side, and few of their heavily armoured crews
or marines survived.
ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE
SALAMÍNA
By boat
There are half-hourly small passenger boats
from Pireás throughout the day (Gate E8; 45min), and a
constant stream of small boats and roll-on, roll-off car
ferries, day and night, from Pérama, on the mainland
directly opposite (5min). Pérama is easily reached by
bus: #843 from Pireás, G18 or B18 from Omónia in
central Athens. There are also ferries every 20min or so
between Faneroméni and Néa Péramos (aka Megára) on
the mainland.
GETTING AROUND
By bus
Salamína has a pretty impressive bus system, with
departures from the ferry dock in Paloúkia to Salamína
Town every fifteen minutes. Buses also run hourly to
numerous other destinations on the island, including
Eándio and Faneroméni.
Égina
A substantial and attractive island with a proud history, less than an hour from Pireás,
ÉGINA
(Aegina)
is not surprisingly a popular weekend escape from Athens. Despite the
holiday homes, though, it retains a laidback, island atmosphere, especially if you visit
midweek or out of season. Famous for its
pistachio orchards
- the nuts are hawked
from stalls all around the harbour - the island can also boast substantial ancient
remains, the finest of which is the beautiful fifth-century BC
Temple of Aphaea
,
commanding superb views towards Athens from high above the northeast coast.
ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE
ÉGINA
By ferry and hydrofoils
Those to Égina Town dock at
parallel quays, pretty much at the heart of things; the
Angístri
Express
(
T
694 71 18863) can be found among the pleasure
and fishing boats a short distance to the south. The schedule
summaries below are for summer weekday services; sailings
are more frequent and significantly busier at weekends (Fri-
Sun), less regular from mid-Sept to June. Ayía Marína and
Souvála are linked to Pireás once or twice daily, with an extra
early morning run to Souvála only in high season.
Tickets and agencies
Immediately in front of the docks
in Égina Town is a row of
cabins
selling tickets for Aegean
Flying
Dolphins
(to Pireás and Angístri
T
22970 25800,
W
aegeanlyingdolphins.gr), Ayios Nektarios Eginas
(ferry
to Pireás
T
22970 25625,
W
anes.gr), Hellenic Seaways
(ferries, hydrofoils and Flying Cat to Pireás and Angístri,
ferry to Póros
T
22970 24456,
W
hsw.gr) and Nova
(ferry
to Pireás
T
22970 24200,
W
novaferries.gr).
Alexandros
Ferries (to Pireás from Ayía Marína
T
22970 52210 and
Souvála
T
22970 32234,
W
alexcruises.gr)
has quayside
booths open an hour or so before departure.
