Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
1
“ancient tastes” and this highly original restaurant claims
to serve ancient Greek food, based on evidence from
contemporary writings. It certainly makes for an enjoyable
evening, in a lovely if slightly tacky setting with bare stone
walls, statues, flaming torches and a courtyard. Dishes
include wild boar cutlets and goat leg with mashed
chickpeas and leeks, cheese, garlic and honey (at €27 for
two), as well as plenty of less meaty options.
Lunch &
dinner Tues-Sun.
Dhiporto
Theátrou, cnr Sokrátous, no phone; map
p.66.
Two brown-painted metal trapdoors in the pavement
open to a steep stairway down into a basement that feels
like it belongs in an Athens of fifty years ago. Simple,
inexpensive Greek food - chick-pea soup, Greek salad, fried
fish - washed down with retsina is enjoyed by market
workers as well as tourists and office suits. Frequently as
the afternoon wears on impromptu music breaks out.
Mon-Sat 6am-6pm.
Ipeiros
Southeast corner of the meat market; map p.66.
A favourite for late-night resuscitation after the clubs or for
a hangover cure the following morning, Ipeiros is an entirely
traditional taverna. There's a wide range of excellent,
inexpensive baked dishes that you can choose from the
kitchen, as well as plenty of meat, but the soups are what
this place is known for, above all patsa, a tripe soup that's
renowned as a cure for all ills. You're sealed off behind glass
from the market, so not quite as close to the action and
smells as at some of the more basic neighbouring stalls.
Open all day, every day, till very late.
Klimataria
Platía Theátrou 2
T
210 321 6629; map p.66.
Friendly, old-fashioned taverna serving ample portions of
traditional fare at reasonable prices (mains around €8). Take a
look at the daily specials in the kitchen; there are usually
excellent vegetable dishes plus daily roast meats. Barrels of
wine are just about the only decoration, but there's open
courtyard seating in summer and live music at the end of the
week.
Open lunchtimes plus dinner Fri & Sat.
NORTHERN ATHENS
RESTAURANTS
Barba Yannis
Emmanouíl Benáki 94
T
210 330 0185;
map p.60.
Neighbourhood treasure with a varied menu of
home-style oven food (changes daily and displayed in large
pots near entrance; around €7.50) in a relaxed atmosphere,
aided and abetted by barrelled wine. Tables outside on
pedestrianized street in summer.
Open all day until the
small hours.
Barbara's Food Company
Emmanouíl Benáki 63-65
T
210 380 5004; map p.60.
Colourful café-restaurant
with wonderful salads (€4.50-6) and pasta dishes, plus
daily specials from around the world (€6.50-9.50), from
meatballs to won-tons, and good-value lunchtime menus.
Daily noon-midnight.
Ì
Lefka
Mavromiháli 121
T
210 361 4038; map p.60.
Beloved old taverna with great
fáva
(hummus-like bean
purée), black-eyed beans and baked and grilled meat with
barrelled retsina. Summer seating in a huge garden enclosed
by barrels.
Lunch & dinner Mon-Sat, lunch only Sun.
Mystic Pizza
Emmanouíl Benáki 76
T
210 383 9500; map
p.60.
Tiny, unpretentious place serving pasta and salads as
well as excellent pizzas (mostly €8-9). The flour they use is
made from hemp (cannabis) seeds, which they claim has both
health and environmental benefits. Takeaway and delivery
service too.
Mon-Fri 1pm-1am, Sat & Sun 7pm-1am.
Pinaleon
Mavromiháli 152
T
210 644 0945; map p.60.
A classic old-style taverna, serving rich mezédhes and
meaty main courses (€7-10), washed down with excellent
organic wine.
Dinner only; closed June-Sept.
Rozalia
Valtetsíou 58
T
210 330 2933; map p.60.
Ever-
popular mid-range taverna, with excellent chicken and
highly palatable barrelled wine. You order mezédhes from
the tray as the waiters thread their way through the
throng; there's also a regular menu of grilled fish and meat.
Garden seating in summer.
Daily lunch & dinner.
Yiandes
Valtetsíou 44
T
210 330 1369; map p.60.
Modern and, for Exárhia, upmarket restaurant serving
excellent food that's based on modern Greek cuisine with
Asian influences and organic ingredients. Pleasant courtyard
next to the Riviera open-air cinema.
Daily lunch & dinner.
CAFÉS
Amouage
Galeria Koraï off Platía Koraï; map p.66.
The
Galeria Koraï is full of cafés and fast-food places - including
the likes of Starbucks, McDonald's and Costa - as well as
more local places like this, serving crêpes (€3-6),
sandwiches, hot dogs and juices.
Mon-Sat all day till
early evening.
Krinos
Eólou 87, behind
the central market; map p.66.
Operating since 1922, though thanks to recent
refurbishment the only signs of that are the old photos
adorning the walls. Still the place for old-fashioned treats
like
loukoumádhes
(doughnut-like puffs soaked in syrup)
and
bougátsa
as well as
tirópittes
, sandwiches and ice
creams.
Mon, Wed & Sat 7.30am-3.30pm, Tues, Thurs &
Fri 7.30am-8.30pm.
CAFÉS
Café Creperie Au Grand Zinc
Emmanouíl Benáki 88;
map p.60.
The cosy, quiet, wood-lined interior makes a
peaceful stop for coffee and crêpes, often to the background
of a little jazz.
Mon-Sat 7pm-2am.
Floral Books and Cafe
Themistokléous 80, Platía
Exarhíon; map p.60.
Spacious and comfortable bookstore/
café, devoting roughly equal space to each activity. Coffee,
juices and snacks in the day, with more of a cocktail bar
atmosphere at night, plus free wi-fi and regular live music.
Daily till late.
FROM TOP
SPONDI (P.107); CHEZ LUCIEN (P.106); TAVERNA TOU PSYRRÍ (P.103); ELIXIRION (P.102) >
