Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
longneck, two-step to live music on the well-worn wooden dance floor or play horseshoes
out in the yard. There's no air-conditioning, but it's got cold beer and great bands. It
seems that anyone who's anyone has played here, from Jerry Lee Lewis to Willie Nelson,
and on Friday and Saturday nights it's always packed. There's only a cover on weekend
nights and when big acts are playing, so at least stroll through and soak up the vibe.
For a rural escape from the big city, you can't beat
Gruene Mansion Inn
( 830-629-2641;
www.gruenemansioninn.com
; 1275 Gruene Rd; d $195-250)
. This cluster of buildings is practically a vil-
lage on its own, with rooms in the mansion, the former carriage house and the old barns.
Richly decorated in a style the owners call 'rustic Victorian elegance,' the rooms feature
lots of wood, floral prints and pressed-tin ceiling tiles. Each room is different, but you can
get a sneak peek on the website and pick your favorite.
Another accommodations option is just down the road at the
Gruene River Inn
(
830-627-1600;
www.grueneriverinn.com
; 1111 Gruene Rd; d $145-185; )
. It's more of a traditional-style
B&B with quilts and antiques - think Grandma's house - but the real draw is the private
decks overlooking the Guadalupe River.
Gruene has a couple of restaurants, but the one you should definitely not miss is the
Gristmill River Restaurant & Bar
(
www.gristmillrestaurant.com
; 1287 Gruene Rd; mains $7-20; 11am-9pm Sun-
Thu, to 10pm Fri & Sat)
. Situated inside the brick remnants of an 80-year-old cotton gin behind
Gruene Hall, it's got oodles of ambience, and outdoor tables get a view of the river. The
extensive menu has lots of Texas favorites like chicken-fried steak, as well as lots of
salads and sandwiches.
WORTH A TRIP
SHINER
For some it's a detour, for others a pilgrimage, but a trip to Shiner to visit the
Spoetzl Brewery
(
www.shiner.com
;
603 E Brewery St; tours free;
tours 11am & 1:30pm Mon-Fri year round, plus 10am & 2:30pm Jun-Aug)
is a must-do for any self-respecting lover of Texas' favorite microbrew: Shiner Bock.
Longing for a taste of the old country, Czech and German settlers founded the brewery over 100 years ago and
hired brewmaster Kosmos Spoetzl (pronounced '
shpet
-zul') to create a traditional German-style bock. Today the
brewery still produces the beloved Shiner Bock, as well as honey wheat, blonde and winter ales - all of which
you can sample for free right after the tour.
By car from San Antonio, take I-10 past Luling to US 95 and go south to get to Spoetzl Brewery. From Austin,
take US 183 south through Luling to Gonzales, then turn east and follow US 90A, which brings you right into the
center of town; cross the railroad tracks and make a left turn on US 95.
