Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
OFF THE BEATEN TRACK
LAS MINAS (THE MINING TRIANGLE)
During their heyday early last century, the towns of Las Minas bustled with immigrants from Ch-
ina, Europe, North America and the Caribbean looking to strike the mother lode. These days very
few outsiders visit this wild and remote part of the country and its main towns,
Siuna
,
Rosita
and
Bonanza
, are most notable for their shocking infrastructure and abundance of armed, inebriated
men.
While gold panning is still popular among villagers, the gold rush is well and truly over and
the only real money being made here is in Bonanza, where a large foreign-owned mine continues
to operate despite criticism from environmentalists. But Las Minas still has one jewel more valu-
able than any that has been dug out of these red soils, a place so remote and untouched that only
the most dedicated tourist ever sets foot in it: the Reserva de Biosfera Bosawás.
The easiest access to the reserve is from Siuna via the
Parque Nacional Saslaya
. Head to the
ranger station, 3.5km from the community of Rosa Grande, where you'll register and contract a
guide for the trek to
Piedra Colorada
. You'll overnight by a pine-shaded lagoon and in the morn-
ing begin the three-day climb to
Cerro El Toro
(1652m), the park's highest point, or an overnight
trip up
El Revenido
. A rolling trail circumnavigates both peaks, and can be done in one day.
Hor-
miguero
is another national-park gateway. From the ranger station at the trailhead it's a five-hour
hike to
Camp Salto Labú
, with a stunning swimming hole that has a cave, canyons and petro-
glyphs. From here you can also begin a four-day trek to the top of
Cerro Saslaya
(1651m). Bring a
sleeping bag, tent and water purification for both treks.
Siuna has a number of other worthwhile attractions. Locals love the nearby, crystalline
aguas
calientes
(hot springs). Take a taxi to
la bomba
, then follow the trail for about an hour across
private Finca Dorado to the springs. Also popular are the rocky beaches of the lazy
Río Wani
, a
slow-motion, sinuous beast carving rocky sand bars and encroaching jungle with lazy grace about
11km from town.
Bonanza is the jumping-off point for
Reserva Natural Cerro Cola Blanca
and the Mayangna indi-
genous communities downriver on the
Río Waspuk
and
Río Pispis
. There are also a couple of great
swimming holes and waterfalls around town.
If you plan to visit the mines,
Intur
( 8655-6658, 8665-9534; adentro Alcaldia; 8am-2pm)
in
Bonanza is able to recommend guides for hikes and activities throughout the region. La Costeña
flies daily from Managua to Siuna and Bonanza at 9am. It's a long, hard slog in a bus from
Managua to Siuna (10 to 12 hours) and an even more challenging journey to Bonanza (14 to 17
hours).
TOP OF CHAPTER
