Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Managua-El Rama Road
If you plan on heading to and from the Costa Atlantica overland (and don't fancy the
grueling 24-hour journey to Bilwi), then you will take the smooth paved roads from
Managua to El Rama, a river-port town that is just a two-hour boat ride from Bluefields.
You can make the trip in six hours on a reasonably comfortable bus, but then you'll
miss the rugged Serranía Amerrisque. In and around these muscular granite peaks are a
number of cute ranching pueblos, and one worthwhile city (that would be Juigalpa),
linked by twisting, rutted back roads that also connect to Matagalpa and the northern high-
lands. So, embrace that whole 'journey is the destination' cliché, take the slow road and
enjoy a welcome blast of earthy Nicaraguan culture before or after diving into the Carib-
bean.
Boaco
POP 21,500 / ELEV 1020M
'The City with Two Floors' was once two separate ranching communities separated by a
steep 400m slope. They've grown together from the hill and valley, and now this ranchero
market town, a couple of hours' drive from Managua with easy access to Matagalpa,
Juigalpa and El Rama, makes a decent overnight respite.
Sights & Activities
You can duck into two interesting churches. Parroquia de Nuestra Señora del Perpetuo So-
corro (salida, 1c N, 2c E) , downstairs, has fading onion domes that hint at a Russian herit-
age. But it's Catholic and always has been. The pale yellow and coral trimmed adobe-
esque La Parroquia de Santiago Apóstol , on the upper floor, makes a nice picture with the
Parque Central in the foreground. But the best views in town can be glimpsed from Parque
El Cerrito del Faro (Parque Central, 2c N, 1½c O) .
Aguas Claras
( 2244-2916; admission US$1.25; Tue-Sun) On Hwy 9, 15 minutes west of town, you'll
find this ageing midlevel hot-springs resort. Water is mineral rich, if not steaming, and
funneled into concrete pools. Rooms (US$29 per person) are nice enough. Midweek it's
mostly deserted and feels like a good place to hide out after a bank heist, but according to
management it gets a huge local crowd on weekends. Taxis charge US$4 from Boaco.
THERMAL BATHS
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