Sights in Sarajevo - Croatia and Slovenia - page 773

Traditional Bosnian Food
(See “Sarajevo Hotels & Restaurants” map, here .)
The Baš č aršija is crowded with tourist-oriented eateries slinging good, if somewhat over-
priced, traditional Bosnian fare (for a primer, see the “Balkan Flavors” sidebar on here ) .
Several obvious choices line the street called Prote Bakovi ć a, which juts up from the
main drag just a block over from “Pigeon Square” (across from the TI). Along here are a
variety ofcrowd-pleasing cafés and restaurants, including Dveri, Pod Lipom, and Dženita.
Comparison-shop menusandtakeyourpick.Butfirstreaduponthecheaperoptionsbelow.
Burek: These delicious “Bosnian pies,” made with flaky phyllo dough and savory
fillings, are available throughout the Balkans. But the best I've tasted are at Buregdžinica
Sa č , a tiny hole-in-the-wall where they're made with fresh ingredients and baked the tradi-
tionalway,underametallidthat'scoveredwithhotcoals (ispod sa č a) .Orderatthecounter,
then take away or grab a table outside—this is Sarajevo's best quick meal. Choose between
spinach,meat,tangycheese,orpotato—oraskforamixofallfour(5KM/portion,Mon-Sat
8:30-20:00, closed Sun, in the alley off of Bravadžiluk street called Bravadžiluk Mali).
Ć evap č i ć i: Around every corner in the Baš č aršija, you'll run into a ć evabdžinica —the
wordforacheapeaterysellingthetastylittlesausage-shapedminced-meatpatties.Bosnians
agree that this is the best place in the country to get the local answer to hot dogs or hambur-
gers. The highest concentration is along Bravadžiluk street, but you'll find them throughout
the Old Town. While you can barely go wrong here, keep an eye out for these options: Pet-
ica (“Five,” run by the Ferhatovi ć family, at Oprkanj 2, near Telali street); Željo (named
for a local soccer team, at Kundurdžiluk 12); Mrkva (“Carrot,” part of a local chain, at
Bravadžiluk 15); and Galatasaray (at Gazi Husrev-Begova 44).
Aš č inica: An aš č inica is a Turkish-style cafeteria, where you survey your options at the
display case and point to what you want. It's an efficient, affordable, and relatively un-
touristy way to get a taste of Bosnian cooking. The aš č inica called ASDž is a good choice
on a nondescript Old Town street (6-12 KM meals, daily 8:00-19:00, Mali Č ur č iluk 3, tel.
033/238-500).
Bosnian Coffee (Bosanska Kafa): Knownelsewhere as“Turkishcoffee,”thisthick,un-
filtered,highlycaffeinatedsludge(whichleavesalayerof“mud”atthebottomofyourcup)
is a Sarajevo staple. For tips on the proper ritual for drinking your Bosnian coffee—which
is an integral part of Bosnian culture—see here . Choose any Baš č aršija table with a view
that you enjoy, or poke into the atmospheric Mori ć a Han courtyard, a former caravanserai
(which also has a restaurant).
Other Options
(See “Sarajevo Hotels & Restuarants” map, here .)