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are made with one of two indigenous grapes: blatina (literally “muddy”; a thick, heavy,
earthy red) and žilavka (literally “root”; a bright, fairly acidic white).
On the Embankment, with Old Bridge Views
(See “Mostar” map, here .)
For the best atmosphere, find your way into the several levels of restaurants that clamber up
the riverbank and offer perfect views of the Old Bridge. In terms of the setting, this is the
most memorable place to dine in Mostar—but be warned that the quality of the food along
here is uniformly low, and prices are relatively high (figure 8-18 KM for a meal). If you
wantagoodperch,it'sfunandsmarttodropbyearlierinthedayandpersonallyreservethe
table of your choice.
To reach two of the most scenic eateries, go over the Old Bridge to the west side of the
river, and bear right on the cobbles until you get to the old Turkish bathhouse (with the cop-
per domes on the roof). To the right of the bathhouse is the entrance to a lively courtyard
surroundedbycafés.Crossingstraightthroughthecourtyard,you'llfindstairsleadingdown
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