Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Bosnian coffee is just one of the many facets of local culture that were adopted from the
Ottomans (from today's Turkey) who ruled here for centuries. Thanks largely to the Turk-
ish influence, Bosnian culture (particularly among Muslim Bosniaks) is permeated with a
deep and abiding soulfulness that's rare in Europe. The Bosnian language features an entire
lexicon of words that have no clear translation in other tongues or cultures. Sarajevans em-
brace the concept of
raja,
meaning an unpretentious humility that involves being one with
a community or a circle of friends.
Merak
is enjoyment, particularly a relaxed atmosphere
that arises when you're among friends—perhaps while listening to
sevdah
music (explained
below) and sipping Bosnian coffee. Enjoying the company of friends while going out for
snacks is called
mezetluk
(related to the Greek
mezedes,
or tapas-like small plates). And
ć
ejf
is a sense of well-being, typically while engaged in an enjoyable—and often highly
idiosyncratic—routine. These rituals—from the way someone spins their worry beads, to
their own unique procedure for preparing and drinking coffee or smoking a water pipe, to
a dervish whirling in a worshipful trance—may seem like OCD (or simply “annoying”) to
many Americans...but Bosnians understand that it's simply
ć
ejf.
Sevdah
—sometimes called “the Bosnian blues”—is atraditional folkmusic that mingles
powerful emotions: sad and happy, convivial and nostalgic. Bosnians explain how the pas-
sionate, mournful strains of
sevdah
(which sounds distinctly eastern) pair perfectly with
falling in love, drinking with friends, or contemplating loss.
Sevdah
is also the word for a
poignant, melancholic mood—sort of the counterpoint to
merak.
Balancing these moods,
Bosniaks explain, is key to emotional satisfaction.
Tostrikeupaconversation,askyournewBosnianfriendtotellyoumoreaboutwhatany
ofthesetermsmeans.AllofthemareexamplesofhowBosnianscelebratethe“littlethings”
thatmakelifeworthliving...thingsthatmainstreamAmericanandEuropeancultures,alltoo
often, see as barriers to progress.
In keeping with their generally relaxed culture, Bosnians are known for their gregarious
senseofhospitality andtheirsharpsenseofhumor.Evenduringthedarkestdaysofthewar,
they found ways to joke about the horrors unfolding around them. And today, they're will-
ingandabletochuckleattheircomplicatedpoliticalsystemandshamboliceconomy.Point-
ing to an ATM, your new Bosnian friend may say, “That's what we call our 'wailing wall.'”
And they like to quip about their unfortunate circumstances in life: “Just our luck. Bosnia
has so many Muslims—but no oil.”
This unique Muslim culture seems fitting in this porous and mountainous land, where
streams and rivers trickle endlessly. After all, the very name “Bosnia” comes from a term
that means “running water” or “saturated”—and Muslim culture prizes constantly flowing
water. While Christians bless still water and call it holy, for Muslims, the power of nature
is in its movement; they prefer water to be continually flowing, cleansing, replenishing, cir-
culating. Just as a dervish whirls to connect with the spirituality of the earth and the heav-
