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ens, so, too, should water be in motion. When the Ottomans arrived here from their Turkish
homeland, they must have felt right at home.
Bosnia rearranges your mental furniture more than any other country in this topic. It of-
fers an enticing glimpse at a completely different, very eastern worldview. And it comes
with some in-your-face lessons about recent history.
While repairs are ongoing, you'll still be confronted by vivid and thought-provoking
scars of the recent war, especially outside of the tourist zones. Poignant roadside memorials
tofallensoldiers,burned-outhusksofbuildings,unmistakablestarburstpatternsinthepave-
ment, and bullet holes in walls are a constant reminder that the country is still recover-
ing—physically and psychologically. Driving through the countryside, you'll pass between
Muslim, Croat, and Serb towns—each one decorated with its own provocative sectarian
symbols. In an age when we watch news coverage of conflicts abroad with the same de-
tachment we accord Hollywood blockbusters, Bosnia teaches an essential lesson about how
real—and destructive—war and interethnic strife truly are.
InthisbookIfocusonafewkeydestinations,includingseveralfascinating,user-friendly
places within easy reach of the Dalmatian Coast: the Turkish-flavored city of Mostar (with
itsrestoredOldBridge—oneofEurope'smostinspiringsights),somenearbyattractions of-
fering amore complete view ofHerzegovina (Blagaj, Po č itelj, andStolac), andthe Catholic
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