MONTENEGRO - Croatia and Slovenia - page 611

con, free Wi-Fi, free parking in front, Obala Kapetana Marka Martinovi ć a bb, tel. 032/
373-687, mobile [phone], www.hotel-conte.com , [e-mail] ) .
$$ Admiral Hotel has eight rooms in a historic officer's mansion. They may renovate
soon, which will increase prices (older and smaller “attic” Db-€60/€50, standard Db-€85/
€75, big Db with seaview balcony-€120/€100, lower rates are for Sept-Oct and May-June,
closed Nov-April, air-con, free Wi-Fi, Obala Kapetana Marka Martinovi ć a 82, tel. 032/
373-556, mobile [phone], www.hoteladmiralperast.com , [e-mail] ) .
They also rent four apartments farther inland.
Eating in Kotor
In coastal, Italian-influenced Kotor, the cuisine is very similar to Croatia's: seafood, pasta,
and pizza. There are a few local specialties to look for, and at the top of the list is Njeguški
pršut, the delicious smoked ham from the village of Njeguši high in the mountains above
town (described later, under “The Montenegrin Interior”). While pršut (prosciutto) is be-
loved throughout the Balkans, Njeguški pršut 's rich, salty, smoky flavor is perhaps the best.
It goes well with the local cow's cheese—smoked, of course.
Montenegro produces some surprisingly good (and expensive) wines. The biggest pro-
ducer in the country—and one of the biggest in the Balkans—is Plantaže Podgorica, which
corks up some 20 million bottles each year. While that kind of volume often doesn't come
withquality,Plantaže'svintagesarequitegoodandworthtrying(ifnotimpossibletoavoid).
The most popular red-wine grape is the dry, medium-bodied vranac (VRAH-nahts), which
is distantly related to Italian primitvo , Californian zinfandel, and Croatian plavac mali . For
white, you'll see the dry, fruity krsta č (kur-STACH), similar to Riesling.
As far as choosing restaurants in Kotor, there's not much to recommend. Truly great
cuisine is rare here—I'd just settle for something scenic and functional. For a better quality,
memorable meal in a romantic setting, drivers can consider heading to Konoba Ć atovi ć a
Mlini or Restoran Stari Mlini (described later).
Simple and Tasty near the Cathedral: La Pasteria has good pizzas, pastas, and other
local dishes, but its main appeal is its breezy outdoor tables facing St. Tryphon's Cathedral
(€6-9 pizzas and pastas, €11-15 main courses, daily 8:00-1:00 in the morning, Pjaca Sv.
Tripuna/Trg od Katedrale, tel. [phone]). Nearby, City Restaurant lacks cathedral
viewsbutoffersafine,shadyperch—itswell-varnished picnictablesaresetwithinthelittle
forest in the Old Town, and more tables fill a small square out front (€6-10 pizzas, pastas,
and salads; €8-18 main courses; daily 8:00-1:00 in the morning; mobile [phone]).
Local Fish: Cesarica offersunpretentiousseafoodinacasual,stonyinteriorburieddeep
in the Old Town. They enjoy bragging that the owner, Petar, was a fisherman, so he has