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battles—given by appreciative sailors who survived; 1,700 silver and gold votive plaques
from other grateful worshippers; 68canvases bylocal Baroque painter Tripo Kokolja; and a
hugecollectionofdriedweddingbouquetsgivenbythosewhohadnothingelsetooffer(the
church is a popular place for weddings). Take a close look at the main altar. That legendary
icon, which refused to budge from this spot, still caps the altar today. The faithful squeeze
into the very tight space behind the altar, where a hole in the back of the structure lets them
reach through and touch the original reef where the icon was found.
The adjacent museum is an entertaining mishmash of items. The entry price includes
a fun little tour by Davorka, Nataša, or Sandra (€1, May-Oct daily 9:00-19:00, off-season
opens sporadically with boat arrival—or call ahead to Davorka's mobile 069-621-322). Just
inside, study the models of both islands. The artificial one—the one you're on—is shaped
vaguely like a boat. The collection includes a wide range of ancient artifacts, including a
glass case displaying fragments dating—staggeringly—from 3500 B.C. (found in the hills
just above Perast). There's also a small modern art gallery with various depictions of the
two islands created by artists who came here and were inspired by this place; paintings of
ships commissioned by local sailors (notice that most have a saintly image of Mary and the
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