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most governmental functions were separate. And it was agreed that after three years,
Montenegro would be allowed to hold a referendum for full independence.
ThatfatefulvotetookplaceonMay21,2006.Ingeneral,ethnicMontenegrinsten-
ded to favor independence, while ethnic Serbs wanted to stay united with Serbia. To
secede,Montenegroneeded55percentofthevote.Bytheslimmestofmargins—half
a percent, or just 2,300 votes—the pro-independence faction won. On June 3, 2006,
Montenegro officially declared independence. (To save face, two days later, Serbia
also “declared independence” from Montenegro.)
Today'sMontenegrins areexcited tohavetheirownlittle countryandenthusiastic
about eventually joining the European Union. Serbia's greatest concern was that in
losing Montenegro, it would also lose its lone outlet to the sea—both for shipping
and for holiday-making. The Serbs also feared that Montenegrin independence might
inspire similar actions in the Serbian province of Kosovo (which did, in fact, declare
independence from Serbia less than two years later).
But for many people in both countries, independence is an epilogue rather than
a climax. Shortly after the referendum, I asked a Montenegrin when the countries
would officially separate. He chuckled and said, “Three years ago.”
Flash forward to today's Our Lady of the Rocks (the flat island with the dome-topped
Catholic church). In the 17th century, locals built this Baroque church on this holy site
and filled it with symbols of thanks for answered prayers. Step inside (free entry) to ex-
plore the collection: silver votive plaques—many of them with images of ships in storms or
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