NEAR DUBROVNIK - Croatia and Slovenia - page 560

the vino signs in Janjina, but these are aimed mainly at Croatians buying table wine in
bulk—100 liters at a time.
Leaving Janjina, keep following signs for Ston and Dubrovnik . You'll twist down and
followthe Bay of Ston, whichisfamousforitsshellfishproduction.HerewheretheNeretva
River (which runs under Mostar's Old Bridge) empties into the sea, conditions are per-
fect for cultivating mussels, oysters, and clams. (You'll spot many such farms out in the
bay—look for the areas roped off with buoys.) The road climbs up once more, passing the
aptly named Bella Vista viewpoint café (which overlooks the dock for the ferry to the na-
tional park on Mljet Island), before continuing into the walled town of Ston. For more on
that town—and a good restaurant in nearby Mali Ston —see here .
Leaving Ston, turn right (toward Dubrovnik) once you hit the main road; from here, it's
about an hour back into town. En route, watch out for the speed traps at the towns of Doli
and Orešac.
Mljet National Park
Carefully protected against modern development, the island hideaway of Mljet National
Parkoffersauniqueback-to-natureescape.Withampleopportunitiesforhiking,swimming,
biking, and boating—and without a nightclub, tacky T-shirt, or concrete “beach” pad in
sight—Mljet (muhl-YAYT) is a potential highlight for active, outdoorsy travelers.
Though Mljet Island is one of Dalmatia's largest, it has fewer than 1,500 residents.
Nearly three-quarters of the island is covered in forest, leaving it remarkably untamed.
Aside from its beautiful national park, Mljet has inspired some of the most memorable tales
of the Croatian coast—the poet Homer, his protagonist Ulysses, and the Apostle Paul all
spent time here...or so the locals love to boast.
Many Croatians swoon over Mljet. Take this with a grain of salt. They appreciate it
primarily for its relative lack of people. One local told me, “Mljet is basically Hvar or
Kor č ula with no towns.” For foreign visitors, the park, while enjoyable, is a bit overrated.
Still, if a peaceful, uncrowded island sounds like your kind of scene, make the trip.
Planning Your Time
Thanks to a handy catamaran connection, Mljet works perfectly as a full-day side-trip from
Dubrovnik (only possible in summer). But because of inconvenient boat schedules to oth-
er destinations, it's challenging to splice it into a one-way itinerary (say, between Kor č ula
and Dubrovnik). So if you want to visit Mljet, either do it as a day trip on your own from