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able, andcovered bythe same ticket as the walls.) Climbing higher andlooking toyourleft,
intotown,you'llseethatthisareaisstilldamaged—notfromthe1991-1992siege,butfrom
the 1667 earthquake. Notice that, unlike the extremely dense construction on the poorer far
side oftown, this area has more breathing space and larger gardens. Originally this was also
densely populated, but after the quake, rather than rebuild, the wealthy folks who lived here
decided to turn some former homes into green space. Grates cover the openings to old wells
and grain stores that once supplied homes here—essential for surviving a siege.
Asthewalkwaysummitsandlevelsout,youpassadrinkstand.Fartheralong,atthepic-
turesque little turret, is an artsy souvenir boutique. You'll stroll past local residents' back-
yards, peering into their inviting gardens and checking the status of their drying laundry.
Looking down to your right (outside the wall), you'll begin to see tables and umbrellas
clinging to the rocks at the base of the wall. This is the recommended Cold Drinks “Buža”
II, the best spot in town for a scenic drink. (You can't enter from atop the wall—you'll have
towaituntillater.)OnthehorizonistheisleofLokrumand—often—cruise shipsatanchor,
sending their passengers to and fro on tenders. After passing Buža, look down on the left to
see the neighborhood kids' makeshift soccer pitch, wedged between the walls, and a little
chapel—the best they can do in this vertical town. Soon you'll see the “other” Buža (tech-
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