North Coast - Peru - page 745

Right in Zorritos, Puerta del Sol ( 54-4294; [e-mail];
Piaggio 109; r per person incl breakfast S40; ) is the skinny little hospedaje that
could. It has a miniature garden bisected by a winding sidewalk and patches of vibrant
lawn. The only accessory missing is a garden gnome. The rooms are simple and neat and
beach access is available, but there are no views.
Midrange choices include the beachfront Hotel Los Cocos ( 9867-1259;
www.hotelloscocos.com ; Panamericana Km 1242; d incl breakfast S200; ) , with
big rooms filled with bamboo furniture, a few arty bits, and sporting balconies with ham-
mocks and sea vistas. The pool has rock features and a separate children's section. There's
also a small kids' play area, a trampoline and a beach volleyball court here.
Combis to Zorritos leave regularly from Tumbes (S2.50, about one hour). Coming from
the south, just catch any bus heading toward Tumbes.
BORDER CROSSING: ECUADOR VIA TUMBES
Shady practices at the border crossing between Ecuador and Peru at Aguas Verdes have earned it the dubious title
of 'the worst border crossing in South America.' Whether it deserves to wear that crown is hard to prove empiric-
ally, but it pays to be wary.
You are strongly advised to take a direct bus across the border with a major bus company like Cruz del Sur ,
Civa , Ormeño or Cifa International ( Click here ), jump off at immigration to get stamped out and get back on
the bus immediately. Scam artists as far back as Máncora rope in travelers by selling them minivan transfers to the
border and reminding them they will need to switch buses at the border. With this thought in mind, you think
nothing of the minivan stopping short of the border due to a 'road block,' 'transit strike' or 'protest' up ahead (
paro is the key Spanish word you are looking for). Your minivan passes you off to another car driven by someone
who explains the situation ahead and tells you he works for the bus companies who normally operate but only cars
can pass. Between the two borders, the car will stop, you will be given a spiel about corrupt immigration officers
at the border and asked to help pay them off as well as cover the additional transport measures. Some travelers
have paid upwards of US$100 for the privilege. If you must make a connection, however, use only combis and
colectivos and stay out of situations where you are the only passenger, even in a marked taxi. It also goes without
saying you should ignore all street touts in Tumbes, who approach foreigners all around town.
Another nugget of wisdom: if you need to change money, avoid doing so at the border as scams and counterfeit
bills are rampant here. Many people will offer their services as porters or guides. Most are annoyingly insistent, so
unless you really need help, they are best avoided.
Now…on to Ecuador! Colectivos (shared transportation taxis; per person S3.50, 25 minutes) and combis
(minibuses; S2, 40 minutes) for Aguas Verdes on the Peru-Ecuador border leave from several spots around town,
most conveniently for travelers from the corner of Puell and Tumbes or Castilla and Feijoo, the latter near the
market. It's S15 for the whole taxi. Unless you have a real love for loitering at dirty border towns, the Ecuadorian
border town of Huaquillas is best avoided. It's far better to take the bus straight through to Machala or Guayaquil
further on in Ecuador.