North Coast - Peru - page 746

The Peruvian immigration office (El Complejo; 072-56-1178; 24hr) is in the middle of the desert at
Aguas Verdes, about 3km from the border. Travelers leaving Peru obtain exit stamps here - if you're catching
public transportation make sure you stop to complete these border formalities. From the immigration office, moto-
taxis can take you the rest of the way to the border (S3).
Aguas Verdes is basically a long, dusty street full of vendors that continues into the near-identical Ecuadorean
border town of Huaquillas via the international bridge across the Río Zarumilla. If you are forced to stay the night
at the border, there are a few basic hotels in Aguas Verdes, but they're all noisy and pretty sketchy. There are
some nicer options in Huaquillas, but really you're better off hanging back in Tumbes for the night or making the
two-hour bus trip to the city of Machala, where there are much better facilities.
The Ecuadorean immigration office is inside the massive blue-and-white compound known as CEBAF (Centro
Binacional de Atención de Frontera; 24hr) , about 4km north of the bridge. Taxis from the bridge charge
US$2.50 and are pretty insistent about being paid in dollars, not nuevo soles . If you find one that will take soles,
you will overpay like we did (S10). Very few nationalities need a visa for Ecuador, but everyone needs a Tarjeta
Andina embarkation card, available for free at the immigration office. You must surrender your Tarjeta Andina
when you leave Ecuador. If you lose it, there is no monetary penalty but you will not be allowed to re-enter
Ecuador for 90 days. Exit tickets out of Ecuador and sufficient funds (US$20 per day) are legally required, but
rarely asked for. Tourists are allowed only 90 days per year in Ecuador without officially extending their stay at a
consulate - if you have stayed more, you may be fined between US$200 and US$2000 when you leave.
See Lonely Planet's Ecuador & the Galápagos Islands for more information.
Tumbes
072 / POP 128,600
Only 30km from the Ecuadorean border, Tumbes is in a uniquely green part of coastal
Peru, where dry deserts magically turn into mangroves and an expanse of ecological re-
serves stretches in all directions. It's also the springboard for trips to the excellent and
popular beaches of Máncora, two hours further south.
A flashpoint for conflict during the 1940-41 border war between Ecuador and Peru,
Tumbes remains a garrison town with a strong military presence. It's hot and (depending
on the season) dusty or buggy, and most travelers don't stay long. But as far as border
towns go, it's not the worst you'll come across - a pleasant plaza, interesting mosaics
around town, a cool elevated riverwalk and several pedestrianized streets make for a toler-
able evening. The nearby national reserves are distinctive as well and a boon for nature
buffs, but most travelers are quick to put Tumbes in their rearview mirror.