Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
BIRD-POO WAR
In the history of pointless wars, the 1864-66 skirmish between Spain and its former colonies of Peru and Chile
might seem like the most pointless of them all. Ostensibly, its primary motivation was not self-preservation or
saving the world from aliens, but guano, or, to put it less politely, bird-poo. But, although a thoroughly unpleasant
substance when dropped from a great height onto your head, guano has long been a vital contributor to the Peruvi-
an economy, and a resource worth protecting from prying outsiders. In the early 19th century, German botanist
Alexander von Humboldt sent samples of it to Europe where innovative British farmers found it to be 30 times
more efficient that cow dung when used as a fertilizer. By the 1850s a rapidly industrializing Britain was import-
ing 200,000 tons of the crap annually to bolster its agriculture. Suddenly the white droppings that covered Peru's
bird-filled Pacific Islands were worth the lion's share of the GDP. Spain understood as much in 1864 when in an
act of post-colonial petulance it occupied the guano-rich Chincha Islands in an attempt to extract reparations from
Peru over a small domestic incident in Lambayeque. Peru didn't hesitate to retaliate. A protracted naval war en-
sued that dragged in Chile, before the islands and their precious bird-pooh were wrenched back from Spain in
1866.
In the conflict-free present, the industry remains lucrative. Layers of sun-baked, nitrogen-rich guano still cover
the Chincha Islands, as well as the nearby Islas Ballestas, although the overfishing of anchovies (the bird's main
food source) in the 1960s and '70s led to a worrying decline in supplies. Today guano production is closely (and
peacefully) regulated by Peru's Ministry of Agriculture.
Information
There's no tourist office in Pisco, but travel agencies on the main plaza and
police
(
53-2884; San Francisco 132; 24hr)
help when they can. Everything else you'll need is
found around the Plaza de Armas, including internet cafes.
Dangers & Annoyances
On its knees after the earthquake, Pisco acquired a reputation for crime, but the curtain is
lifting. The commerce-packed streets should be fine during the daytime (there's a notable
police presence in the city center). Nonetheless, it is best to utilize taxis after dark, partic-
ularly around the bus station and market areas. If you arrive late, get the ticket agent at
your bus company office to hail you a reputable cab.
Money
