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around the landscape, are so beautiful you'll never want to leave; think plunge baths, the
gentle lap of waves and the tinkle of a waiter quietly appearing with a bottle of chilled
Champagne at your verandah. Tempted? You should be, for this is one of the finest
boutique experiences on the continent. The bar-cum-restaurant is somewhere between a
Bedouin dream and Caribbean shack. Dinner is set by candlelight on the beach, staff are
almost elfin in their diplomacy and discretion, while the food is dreamed up by a chef who
trained under Jamie Oliver. Massages can be had for US$65 or reflexology for US$50 and
there's a boutique selling exquisite handmade jewellery and sarongs. It's only when you
leave Kaya Mawa that you truly appreciate how special it is.
Mango Drift $$$
( 0999-746122; www.mangodrift.com ; campsite/dm per person US$6/8, chalets US$30,
d chalets US$70; ) The slacker, rough-and-ready sibling of Kaya Mawa perhaps, but
really, this place is hardly backpacker hardship - in fact, it has to be the country's most
idyllic hostel. Its lake-caressing cabanas were recently rebuilt in stone and boast some ser-
ious boutique genes like hibiscus petals scattered on snow-white linen, painted wicker so-
fas, and sundown verandahs.
The shared toilets and shower block are no less immaculate. Double en suite cabanas
can be found up the hill and have been lavished with typical Kaya Mawa detail. There's
also a boutique selling pashminas, beaded jewellery and dresses. Chill out in the bar, grab
a book from the exchange, scuba dive or just flop on the golden beach shaded by mango
trees. You just arrived in heaven.
HOSTEL
Hunger Clinic $
(mains MK750; 6am-6pm; ) Right by the water opposite the Immigration Office,
this simple cafe serves up nshima with veg and great fish and chips.
MALAWIAN
Getting There & Away
Ulendo Airlink ( 01-794 555; www.ulendo.net/flyer ; 441 Chilanga Drive, Area 10,
Capital City, Lilongwe) provides charter flights to Likoma. The more of you there are, the
cheaper it is per person. For example, a one-way flight from Lilongwe to Likoma Island
ranges from US$210 to US$320 per person depending on how many of you there are.
The Ilala ferry - out of service for repairs at the time of research but hopefully now
back on the water - stops at Likoma Island twice a week, usually for three to four hours,
so even if you're heading elsewhere, you might be able to nip ashore to have a quick look
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