Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
at the cathedral. Check with the captain before you leave the boat. Heading south, the
ferry then sails to Metangula on the Mozambican mainland. Local dhows also sail to
Cóbuè for MK500 and for a little extra can pick you up or drop you off from Mango Drift
on Likoma.
Chizumulu Island
Stretches of azure water and white rocky outcrops give Chizumulu Island a Mediterranean
flavour, while the backdrop of dry scrub is positively antipodean.
Sometimes known as Nick's Place,
Wakwenda Retreat
( 0999-348415; campsite/
dm US$3.50/6, r from US$14)
, smack bang on a postcard-perfect beach, is utter chill-out
material. The sizeable bar is constructed around a massive, hollow baobab tree, and there
are small wooden chill-out platforms constructed on and around a cluster of boulders in
the sand - perfect for sundowners. The shaded lounge area is often the focus of lazy activ-
ity such as snorkelling (free gear), card games and goat barbecues. The restaurant (meals
from MK500) serves food communal style, so it's easy to get to know the other guests.
The
Ilala
ferry stops right outside Wakwenda Retreat, so even if you're not staying on
the island, you can pop over for a drink. There are daily dhow ferries between Likoma and
Chizumulu costing around MK500 per person. The trip can take anywhere from one to
three hours depending on the weather; it's an extremely choppy ride when the wind is
blowing, and potentially dangerous if a storm comes up. If you're unsure, ask at Wak-
wenda Retreat for advice.
