Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
The main area for exploring is the coast between Metangula and Cóbuè, with a succes-
sion of narrow beaches - some sandy, others gravel - backed by mountains and steep hills
rising up directly from the lakeshore. Most local residents are Nyanja ('People of the
Lake'), and their distinctively painted square, thatched dwellings dot the countryside.
Fishing is the main source of livelihood, though it's mostly small scale. The only commer-
cial fishing operation on the Mozambican side of the lake is at Metangula.
Allow plenty of time for getting around and be prepared to rough it. When venturing
onto the lake, keep in mind that squalls can arise suddenly, often with strong winds.
METANGULA
Bustling Metangula is the capital of lake district, the largest Mozambican town along the
lakeshore, and the site of a small naval base. The town is divided into two areas: the staid
administrative quarters perched on a small escarpment with wide views over the lake, and
the lower lying residential areas along the lake shore. Metangula itself has little for visit-
ors, however, about 8km north of town is the tiny village of
Chuwanga
, which is on an
attractive beach, and is a popular weekend getaway from Lichinga.
About 5km northeast of Chuwanga is
Messumba
, site of a well-known Anglican mis-
sion that traces its history back to the arrival of the first missionaries in the area in 1882.
Until being forced to close during the war, Messumba served as headquarters for Anglican
missionary activity in northern Mozambique. It was renowned for its hospital and for the
Colégio de São Felipe, where numerous notables studied, including several members of
Frelimo's elite. Most of the mission buildings are now in disrepair, although you can still
visit the church and walk around the grounds.
Sleeping & Eating
Mbuna Bay $$$
( 82-536 7781;
www.mbunabay.ch
; s/d with full board in bush bungalow US$140/220,
in beach chalet US$180/280)
About 15km south of Metangula, the eco-friendly Mbuna
Bay has four wooden beachfront cottages, four brick cottages set back in the bush, and
one wattle-and-daub cottage. All have creatively designed bathrooms (some open-air),
and all are comfortable in a rustic way. Snorkelling, dhow sails, kayaking and yoga can all
be arranged, as can transfers from Lichinga.
CHALETS
Chuwanga Beach Hotel $
BUNGALOWS
