Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Getting Around
Minibuses, called
angkot
or taxis (3000Rp), converge at Pasar Pagi. Taxis from Tu-
mendung Airport (3km) cost 35,000Rp. Alternatively, walk 100m to Jl Gatot Subroto,
turn left and catch
angkot
B into town.
Cross-Mahakam ferries to Samarinda Seberang (5000Rp) leave from the end of Jl Tu-
menggung.
Sungai Mahakam
The second-largest river in Indonesia, the mighty Mahakam is at once a major highway, a
cultural tour and a wildlife-spotting expedition. It is also the only major river with public
transport all the way into the heart of Borneo, making its 930km length entirely access-
ible.
Activites
Travelling up this jungle river is a journey in the fullest sense of the word. One heads
away from the industrial centre of Samarinda and slips deeper and deeper into the jungle,
and into Borneo's past. A week later it is either time to start the difficult next stage of the
Cross-Borneo Trek, or turn back. Along the way there is great variety, including the many
boats that ply the river and local wildlife. Between Tanjung Isuy and Mancong our re-
search trip encountered river otter, gold-ringed snake, python, proboscis monkey,
macaque, kingfisher, monitor lizard, hornbill, stork, and an unidentified condor. There are
many opportunities for exploration, from towns and longhouses to huge lakes, wetlands
and other rivers. This is a place that rewards travellers with time on their hands and hence
the ability to jump off the boat and wait for the next one, even if it means staying
overnight.
As you continue upriver, tourist facilities recede - and what there is ain't great. On the
other hand, the Mahakam is one of those places where you shouldn't worry too much
about the details. Homestays materialise, 'my brother's boat' appears, closed stores open.
Westerners in particular will be greeted with legendary hospitality. Transport gets increas-
ingly expensive the further upriver you go, due to the cost of lugging fuel that far, but
everything else is dirt cheap, so a little money goes a long way.
