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pretty nonplussed by the meal you had. If you are keen to try this historic cuisine, Li's Im-
perial Cuisine does a more approachable variation.
Outer Districts
There are few restaurants of note in the outer districts, and generally if you're in the area
it can be hit and miss with what you find. If in doubt, at Badaling in Yanqing county, there
are always the American fast-food staples on hand. A short drive from here, the county
also offers the Commune by the Great Wall (Great Wall, exit 53 at Shuiguan, G6 Jingzang
Hwy., 长城脚下的公社, 北京G6京藏高速公路53号, 水关长城出口, tel. 10/8118-1888,
www.communebythegreatwall.com ) . A hotel best known for its architecture, the Commune
also serves up decent regional Chinese fare. The hotel is literally by the Great Wall—just
don't expect to be able to walk on it if you're only popping in for lunch.
Those who choose to go to the Mutianyu section in Huairou will have some of the best
options. A local favorite is Shuntong Hongzun Yu, or Shuntong Rainbow Trout (Tianxian
village, Bohai town, Huairou district, 顺通虹鳟鱼, 怀柔区渤海镇田仙峪村北慕田峪环
岛直行 , tel. 10/6162-6088), which is a short drive northwest of the Mutianyu section of the
wall. You'll get to sample the fresh, locally caught trout, together with a wide array of other
excellent dishes, all in a pretty, waterside setting. A little closer to the Great Wall is a place
better known to the foreign crowd, the Schoolhouse (12 Mutianyu village, 怀柔区 慕田
峪村 12号 , tel. 10/6162-6506, http://theschoolhouseatmutianyu.com ) , which serves quality
Western and Chinese cuisine in a repurposed former school.
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