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be hundreds of years old as well. As in Mexico and Guatemala, the
countryside is a rich green. As I ran along a road carved in the moun-
tainside, the cliff faces on either side of me were strewn with thick,
hanging ferns and vines. I passed fig trees growing 50 metres above my
head, with vines dangling all the way to the road. I couldn't help but
think that the inspiration for the movie Avatar must have come from
a place just like this.
Clean, fresh, running water pours down the mountainsides. I
often stopped today to drink and to soak my hot and weary body in the
cool springs. It was as good as a magic elixir! It reminded me again that
clean water is the reason I have embarked on this momentous journey.
The humidity is incredible, and within 20 minutes of starting
running my clothes were sweat-soaked. I cut small slits into my hat
to allow some ventilation. That was a good and a bad idea: it certainly
cooled me down by letting in the air, but it also let in a leech. The slimy
little beast attached itself to my scalp and started sucking. I didn't feel
anything until the blood began to run down my face. I removed my
hat and grabbed the leech, which by that point was engorged with my
blood and the size of my finger. One of the many hazards of jungle
areas is that, whether you're asleep or running full pelt, there is always
a bug or grub trying to gnaw on you.
There are many road tunnels in El Salvador, which seem like gate-
ways from one region to the next. You can be travelling over mountains
and across rivers, enter a tunnel, and emerge onto a flat plain. I ran
through one today, and, when I exited it, stretching before me was
the Pacific Ocean. Wow. The view, looking out over dramatic cliffs that
plunged straight down to palm-fringed black sand beaches and on to
the raging sea, took my breath away. On this run, I get a thrill every
time I encounter the Pacific. That mighty ocean always reminds me of
home; it comforts me to know that on the other side of it lies Australia.
It makes me feel a little bit closer to my loved ones and helps me to
forget for a moment my aches and pains.
Of course, I had a swim, and Chris and Tony joined me. Although
the sand is volcanic and black, the ocean is clear and clean, with great
waves for surfing. It's good for my range of movement to stretch out
in the water and have a swim, and better than a massage because the
salt water also helps to heal my blisters and wounds. Chris and Tony
will be flying home tomorrow. My brothers have been a help with their
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