Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
industry, inciting Wisconsin's version of a range war between the mills of the upper Chip-
pewa River and the Buffalo Slough mills. One river, the Chippewa, drained one-third of
northern Wisconsin and led directly to Buffalo Slough.
Almaformssogradually thatit'sreally toughtogaugeexactly wherethecitystarts.Tough,
that is, until you get a gander at weathered Twelve Mile Bluff standing guard. Mississippi
river pilots at one time used the bluff as a landmark and navigational aid. Founded in the
1850s by Swiss immigrants who set up a supply depot for riverboats, this tranquil little
townofunderstatedhousesmakesforalow-keyovernightbetweenLaCrosseandPrescott.
For ever so long, aerobically inclined wanderers have had a ready-made workout, huffing
up the steps etched into the bluffs. And for scenic drives, the “dugways,” what locals call
roads that wind through the bluff country backing east off the river, can't be beat. (See
www.almawisconsin.com
for more reading.) Shh, this place is my personal “secret” get-
away.
Sights
Lock and Dam 4
sits across the street from the busiest part of the center of town. It's got
the requisite observation platform. It's also got the largest
fishing float
on the river; just
hang about and they'll come fetch you.
RightabovethetownoffHighwayEislikelythebestpublicparkalongtheroad:
Buena
Vista Park,
a vantage point for thousands of migrating
tundra swans,
which lay up in the
sloughs north of town. Alternatively,
Rieck's Lake Park
north of town has a wildlife-ob-
servation deck atop the water. Your humble scribe's fave is the
Mossy Hollow Trail
(Ce-
metery Road between Countryside and Buffalo Electric, ask locally for specifics).
Southeast of town, the proprietors of
Danziger's Vineyards
(S2015 Grapeview Lane,
608/685-6000,
www.danzigervineyard.com
) may be the most charming you'll meet. Re-
tired dairy farmers, they make a phenomenal wine from La Crescent grapes.
