Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
The Lake Superior Coast
Wisconsin is capped in the far north by the serpentine Lake Superior coastline. There are
those who say the entire Wisconsin experience can be had in but two counties, albeit the
biggies—Bayfield and Ashland, whose perimeters enclose a national lakeshore (including
an archipelago), two Indian reservations, arguably the best concentration of waterfalls in
the state, and a chunk of the massive Chequamegon National Forest.
MM BAYFIELD
This gateway village is right out of a Currier and Ives print, the sandstone bluff offering a
commanding view of the Apostle Islands. The town is gatekeeper to superlative Bayfield
County, a mix of island-dotted seascapes, Great Lakes thunderheads, and pastoral dairy-
land. It is quite likely the most aesthetically realized village in the state; the Chicago
Tribune hasdubbeditthe“BestLittleTownintheMidwest.”Mostofthehillsidemansions,
virtually all on the National Register of Historic Places, were built from the earthtone and
pastel brownstone underlying the Apostle Islands archipelago, and every hairpin turn on
WIS 13 reveals a spectacular lake panorama.
Sights
The “Carnegie Hall ofTent Shows” isawondrouswaytorelax after adayofisland explor-
ing. The Lake Superior Big Top Chautauqua (Ski Hill Rd. at base of Mt. Ashwabay Ski
Hill, 715/373-5552 or 888/244-8368, www.bigtop.org ) is equal parts vaudeville, minstrel
and thespian troupe, and folkways preservation. It all takes place under Big Blue, a 60- by
150-foot tent (so revered was the original that when replaced they actually sold hats made
out of it). A night's slate of entertainment might feature national folk, country, or bluegrass
artists;guestlectures;anddramasrecountingChequamegonBayhistory.Plentyoffoodand
drink is available on site. Performances cost $22 adults, $11 children 12 and under for re-
served seats; some big-name acts command higher prices.
Downtown Bayfield also has a couple of tiny museums. Better of the two is the
Bayfield Maritime Museum (1stSt.betweenU.S.CoastGuardStationandCityHall,715/
779-9919, www.apostleisland.com , 10am-5pm daily Memorial Day-Oct. 5, $5 adults) with
displays on the ecosystem and species of Lake Superior, knot tying, Native American fish-
ing, and local history. You can also ogle an original Chequamegon Bay tug and parts from
other local boats.
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