Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
The Island
ISLAND
(
Το Νησί; To Nisi) lies opposite Ioannina, amidst woods and wildflowers in Lake Pam-
votis. In the 17th-century, refugees from Peloponnesian Mani built its portside village,
where around 300 people still live. The island's secluded monasteries are significant for
their unusual frescoes and book collections, while the laneways with old, white-plastered
houses lend atmosphere.
Here unfolded the last act in despot Ali Pasha's grand drama. After years of duplicit-
ous double-dealing and brazen challenges the Ottomans decided to eliminate the 82-year-
old 'Lion of Ioannina' in 1822. Perfidiously assured of a pardon, Ali withdrew with his
guard to the island's Moni Panteleimon. There he was trapped and Ottoman soldiers shot
him; note the fatal bullet hole in the floorboards at the
Ali Pasha Museum
(The Island;
adult €1; 8am-10pm summer, 9am-9pm winter)
. An English-language narrrative recounts
Ali's last days, and exhibits personal effects and etchings of the portly pasha in full re-
pose, sitting fat and happy with consort, beard and hookah. To get there, take the main
street left from above the port.
The 13th-century
Moni Filanthropinon
(
Μονή Φιλανθρωπινών
; The Island;
9am-6pm)
, on the western side, was built by the Filanthropini, a leading Con-
stantinopolitan family fleeing the 1204 Crusader conquest. Its 16th-century frescoes of
pagan Greek philosophers Plato, Aristotle and Plutarch sit alongside more suitably Chris-
tian personalities. The expressive pathos of the paintings, characteristic of the 'Epirot
School', has excited art historians. In Ottoman times, it was also a secret school for
Christians.
Restaurant Kyra Vasiliki
( 26510 81681; The Island; mains €6-8)
, under a plane tree by
the ferry dock, serves grills and some fish.
Propodes
( 26510 81214; The Island; fish
€4-6)
, under an awning on the Moni Panteleimon path, is fronted by tanks filled with
wriggling eels, hopping frogs and crayfish waiting for the kettle. For a quiet drink, walk
just downhill from the square to the new
Kafeteria Ta Bakakakia
( 6947135096; The Is-
land; 9am-9pm daily May-Sep, Sat-Sun Oct-Apr)
, which has juices, milkshakes and more,
plus lovely views across the lake to the mountains.
Ioannina's
ferry quay
has ferries (€2, 10 minutes) from 7am to 11.30pm in summer,
and 7am to 10pm in winter. Summer services are every 15 minutes; in winter, only
hourly.
Perama Cave
CAVE
8am-8pm)
Stalactite-rich Perama Cave (4km from Ioannina) is among Greece's largest
