Northern Greece - Greece - page 524

but don't forget that this is a conservative area and the baths are no place for debauchery,
shouting or gleeful nudity.
Enjoy rustic country salad and spit- roasted goat or lamb at Thermes' shop-restaurant,
Kafe Psistaria O Kalemtzi (Thermes village; lunches €7) . Owner Kemal Kalemtzi, rents ba-
sic rooms at Enoikiazomena Domatia Kalemtzi Kemal ( 25540 22474, 6977597500;
Thermes village; d €25) next door. His son Hassan speaks English.
Some 35km northwest of Xanthi, Stavropouli is relatively unvisited by foreigners, but
is well-situated on the Nestos River . Not as cold as other northern rivers, but just as en-
chanting, the Nestos runs from the Rodhopi Mountains into an Aegean delta. Kayaking
and rafting are organised by Riverland Outdoor Activities ( 25410 62488;
www.riverland.gr ; Toxotes village) , based in Toxotes village, southwest of Xanthi. Riverland
also offers horseback riding and Nestos delta birdwatching tours.
Getting There & Away
The Xanthi-Thermes bus (€3.80, 90 minutes) departs at 6.30am daily and returns at
3.30pm. A later bus runs at 2.10pm, meaning you must stay overnight in Thermes. Other
buses serve Stavroupoli and Toxotes.
TOP OF CHAPTER
KomotiniΚομοτηνή
POP 60,648
Komotini (ko-mo-tih- nee ), 52km east of Xanthi, is the Rhodopi prefecture's capital. It's a
backwater, but has several intriguing museums and historic buildings. It's enlivened by
university students who fill the cafes on the square (Plateia Irinis). Roughly half the pop-
ulation of Komotini are Turkish, a higher percentage than any other major Greek town.
Attractions reflect Komotini's mixed heritage, with Byzantine churches, Ottoman
mosques and neoclassical mansions. Its street markets, old quarter and Turkish sweets
create an authentic Thracian feel.
Sights
Byzantine Fortress RUINS
Komotini's 4th-century-AD Byzantine Fortress was built by Emperor Theodosius, near
today's Plateia Irinis. Remnants include one of 16 original towers.