Central Greece - Greece - page 384

winter stopover for thousands of migrating birds and an important breeding ground for
the endangered Dalmatian pelican - not to mention a pilgrimage site for birdwatchers
and photographers, thanks to the remarkable pelades (stilt huts) in the water. The town
centre is anything but motionless, with the pedestrian lanes around the central square
lined with lively bars and tavernas.
History
During the War of Independence (1821-30), Britain's philhellenic bard Lord Byron ar-
rived in Messolongi with the intention of organising the troops and supporting the Greek
war effort. After months of vain attempts, Byron contracted a fever and died on 19 April
1824, his immediate aims unfulfilled.
Byron's death spurred international forces to hasten the end of the War of Independen-
ce, making him, to this day, a Greek national hero. Many men bear the name Byron
(Vyronas in Greek) and most Greek towns have a street named after him.
In the spring of 1826, under the helm of Egyptian general Ibrahim, Messolongi was
captured by the Turks. Their year-long siege drove 9000 men, women and children to es-
cape on the night of 22 April 1826 through what is now called the Gate of Exodus. Many
took refuge on nearby Mt Zygos, only to be caught or killed by an Albanian mercenary
force. A smaller group remained behind to detonate explosives as the Turks approached.
This tragic exodus was immortalised in Dionysios Solomos' epic poem 'I Eleftheri Poli-
orkimeni' (The Free Besieged).
Sights
Garden of the Heroes GARDEN
( 8am-8pm) Just beyond the Gate of Exodus is the Garden of Heroes, translated incor-
rectly as 'Heroes' Tombs' on the road sign. This memorial garden was established by the
first governor of Greece following independence, Ioannis Kapodistrias, who issued the
following decree (the Greek text of which is on the marble slab to the right as you enter
the garden): '…within these walls of the city of Messolongi lie the bones of those brave
men, who fell bravely while defending the city…it is our duty to gather together, with
reverence, the holy remains of these men and to lay them to rest in a memorial where our
country may, each year, repay its debt of gratitude.'
A statue of Lord Byron features prominently in the garden. When Byron died, the
Greeks were heartbroken at the loss of a British nobleman who had given his life for
their freedom. At the end of a national 21-day mourning period, Byron's embalmed body