Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Mastihari Μαστιχάρι
This quiet town might not be architecturally photogenic but its powder-fine beach dotted
with tamarisk trees, clutch of studio accommodation and tasty waterfront eateries make it
a nice place to reside or stop for lunch. In the summer months there are excursion boats
that run to Pserimos. Mastihari is also an arrival/departure point for ferries to Pothia on
Kalymnos.
A block back from the seafront, Athina Studios ( 22420 59030; www.athinas-studi-
os.gr ; d/tr €30/60) has superfresh studio rooms with blue Aegean trim and spotless kit-
chenettes, as well as private balconies, TV, fridge and an extra bed for the kids. One of
the rooms has bunk beds, double bed and a large balcony. There's also a roof garden. Op-
posite on the same street, Studios Diana ( 22420 59116; apt €45) has clean and basic
studios with private balconies and dated kitchens.
The beachfront is lined with restaurants and cafes, many offering children's menus.
Right on the harbour, Kali Kardia Restaurant (fish €9-12) is atmospheric with a wood in-
terior patronised by older folk staring out to sea, and a kitchen piping aromas of squid,
shrimp, cuttlefish and oysters. The beachside taverna El Greco (mains €7) pleases with
fresh salads, zucchini, souvlakia, and lamb with rosemary sauce; as well as all-day break-
fasts.
Mountain Villages
The villages scattered on the green northern slopes of the Dikeos mountain range are a
great place for exploring. At Zipari , 10km from the capital, a road to the southeast leads
to Asfendiou . En route, 3km past Zipari, stop in at Taverna Panorama (mains €6-10;
lunch & dinner) for coastal views, traditional cuisine and good mezedhes.
From Asfendiou, a turn-off to the right leads to the pretty village of Zia , essentially a
one-street affair with a gauntlet of souvenir shops and enticing tavernas. Take a right
through the market and head up the hill to The Watermill (mains €6) for spectacular
views. In the house of an old mill this whitewashed eyrie has a serene vine-covered ar-
bour and restful patio and makes delicious crepes, fruit salads, juices, omelettes and pasta
dishes. If you're thirsty, try their moreish homemade lemonade.
The Village Tavern (mains €7; 8.30am-11pm) , festooned in flags, pipes out chirpy
bouzouki music across its blue-and-white decor and turns out salads, tzatziki (sauce of
grated cucumber, yoghurt and garlic), zucchini balls, mixed mezedhes and sausages.
Also worth a visit is Taverna Oromedon (
22420 69983; mains €9;
8am-midnight) ,
 
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