Dodecanese - Greece - page 1025

popular for its vine-laced sun terrace, unbroken sea views and traditional Greek menu of
shrimp saganaki, dolmadhes, stifadho and souvlakia.
Returning north from Zia, follow signs for Pyli . Just before the village, a left turn leads
to the extensive ruins of the medieval village of Old Pyli where a well-marked trail leads
up to Pyli Castle . This magical area of towering rocks carpeted in pine trees and
crowned by the ruinous castle is so wild you half expect Pan to pop up. Equally delight-
ful is Oria Taverna (mains €7; 9am-9pm) on the opposite hillside. Instead of walking
left for the fort, head up the steps. The taverna sits on a hill with possibly the best view
on the island - a 1000-year-old ruined fort. Tuck into their seasonal, locally sourced
menu of steaks, meatballs, zucchini and tzatziki.
Buses leave Kos for Pyli (€2) four times per day.
Kamari & Kefalos Bay Καμάρι & Κέφαλος
Southwest from Mastihari is the huge Kefalos Bay, fringed by a 12km stretch of incred-
ible sand. Don't be put off by the tacky tourist shops, restaurants and hotels behind on
the main road; these divine beaches are idyllic, backed by green hills and lapped by
warm water. Each is clearly signposted from the main road. The most popular is
Paradise Beach MAP , while the most undeveloped is Exotic Beach MAP . Banana
Beach MAP (also known as Langada Beach) is a good compromise.
Agios Stefanos Beach MAP , at the far western end, is reached along a short turn-off
from the main road and worth a visit to see the island of Agios Stefanos . Within swim-
ming distance, this tiny island is home to the ruins of two 5th-century basilicas and to an-
other lovely, sandy beach.
Further down the road, you'll reach Kamari Beach MAP , a resort strip packed with
restaurants, accommodation and shops. You'll find a small tourism office next to the
beachside bus stop and an ATM on the top road. Excursion boats leave from here for
Nisyros (€16) two or three times weekly. There are also daily boats to Paradise Beach in
the summer, departing from Kamari at 10.30am and returning at 5.30pm.
About 150m north of the Kamari seafront bus stop you'll find accommodation at
Anthoula Studios ( 22420 71904; studios €40) , a spotless set of airy, roomy studios sur-
rounded by a vegetable garden.
Small, authentic Kefalos barely stirs from its afternoon retsina as you pass. Kafenion
Agiatrida (snacks €3) behind the church is a homey turquoise-and-white-walled, wood-
raftered cafe, perfect for a mid-afternoon frappé. The central square, where the bus from
Kos Town terminates, has a post office and bank with an ATM.