Indigenous Culture - Bolivia - page 662

MUSIC & DANCE
While all Andean musical traditions have evolved from a series of pre-Inca, Inca, Spanish,
Amazonian and even African influences, each region of Bolivia has developed distinctive
musical traditions, dances and instruments.
The instrument Bolivia is most known for, and understandably proud of, is the charango,
considered the king of all stringed instruments. Modeled after the Spanish vihuela and
mandolin, it gained initial popularity in Potosí during the city's mining heyday. Another in-
strument commonplace in the gringo markets is the quena, a small flute made of cane, bone
or ceramic. The instrument predates Europeans by many centuries and the earliest ex-
amples, made of stone, were found near Potosí. A curious instrument known as a jaguar-
caller comes from the Amazon region. This hollowed-out calabash, with a small hole into
which the player inserts his hand, seems to do the trick in calling the big cats to the hunt.
MESTIZA DRESS
The characteristic dress worn by many Bolivian indigenous women was imposed on them in the 18th century by the
Spanish king, and the customary central parting of the hair was the result of a decree by the Viceroy of Toledo.
This distinctive ensemble, both colorful and utilitarian, has almost become Bolivia's defining image. The most
noticeable characteristic of the traditional Aymará dress is the ubiquitous dark green, black or brown bowler hat.
Remarkably, these are not attached with hat pins but merely balanced on the head.
The women normally braid their hair into two long plaits that are joined by a tuft of black wool known as a po-
cacha . The pollera skirts they wear are constructed of several horizontal pleats, worn over multiple layers of petti-
coats. Traditionally, only a married woman's skirt was pleated, while a single female's was not. Today, most of the
synthetic materials for these brightly colored polleras are imported from South Korea.
The women also wear a factory-made blouse, a woolen chompa (sweater/jumper), a short vestlike jacket and a
cotton apron, or some combination of these. Usually, they add a shawl, known as a manta. Fashion dictates sub-
tleties, such as the length of both the skirt and the tassels on the shawl.
Some sling an aguayo (also spelled ahuayo ), a rectangle of manufactured or handwoven cloth decorated with
colorful horizontal bands, across their backs. It's used as a carryall and is filled with everything from coca or gro-
ceries to babies.
The Quechua of the highland valleys wear equally colorful, but not so universally recognized, attire. The hat,
called a montera, is a flat-topped affair made of straw or finely woven white wool. It's often taller and broader than
the bowlers worn by the Aymará. The felt monteras (aka morriones ) of Tarabuco, patterned after Spanish con-
quistadors' helmets, are the most striking. Women's skirts are usually made of velour and are shorter in length.