Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Sights & Activities
The best way to see this region is on foot. A highly recommended three- or four-day cir-
cuit taking in several Cordillera highlights and the villages at the heart of the community
tourism project begins at Chataquila, on the ridge above Punilla, 35km northwest of
Sucre. From here (with an optional side trip to the abstract red, white and black man-an-
imal rock paintings at Incamachay and Pumamachay) you descend to Chaunaca, then head
to the Cráter de Maragua, before ending with the spectacular six- to seven-hour walk - via
chullpa
(funerary towers) and with a short diversion to see the dinosaur footprints at Niñu
Mayu - to Potolo. At Potolo there is daily transportation back to Sucre.
We strongly recommend taking a guide to increase your enjoyment of the region and
communicate with the Quechua-speaking
campesinos
. A responsible guide will help you
avoid local hostility, minimize your impact and help you get a better feel for the local cul-
ture.
There are numerous walking routes through the Cordillera de los Frailes, some of
which are marked on the 1:50,000 topo sheets
Sucre,
sheet 6536IV, and
Estancia Chaun-
aca,
sheet 6537III. You can get them at the Instituto Geográfico Militar (
Click here
)
in
Sucre.
THE JAL'QA COMMUNITIES
The Cordillera de los Frailes is home to the Quechua-speaking Jal'qa people, of whom there are some 10,000 in
the area around Potolo and Maragua. They have traditionally made a living from farming potatoes, wheat and bar-
ley, and herding sheep and goats. The weaving of elaborately patterned
aqsus
(an apron-like skirt) is an important
craft tradition and these Escher-like red-and-black garments are instantly recognizable, being patterned with in-
ventive depictions of
khurus
- strange, demon-like figures.
In 2001 the Jal'qa decided that they wanted to embrace tourism, but in a sustainable form that would benefit the
community without destroying its traditions. They have developed a series of accommodations, cultural centers
and guiding services, all involving maximal community participation. The villages receive 100% of profits.
Accommodations and restaurant services have been set up in the villages of
Maragua
and
Potolo
. Sets of at-
tractive thatched
cabañas
have been constructed using traditional methods and materials; they boast comfortable
beds, hot water and attractive wooden furniture, and are decorated with local textiles. The cost is B$60 per person
per night; for B$100 per person, meals and cultural displays are included. The villages also have good camping
areas. In
Chaunaca
there's a camping area and some beds set up in the information center, but no restaurant ser-
vice. The villages are well placed for hiking.
On the way, you will eat traditional Bolivian
campesino
meals - such as
kala purca,
a maize soup cooked by
immersing hot stones in it. Cultural activities that can be organized include demonstrations of
pujllay
dancing or
traditional medicine. Weaving workshops can be found in all the villages mentioned, as well as some others, while
