Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Chaunaca has an interpretation center and Potolo a museum of indigenous healing. Note that the Jal'qa aren't fond
of being photographed.
To book the Maragua cabañas, call
644-5341. For Potolo call
693-8204. Alternatively, ask at the
Museo de Arte Indígena ( Click here ) in Sucre.
CHATAQUILA TO CHAUNACA
On the rocky ridgetop at Chataquila is a lovely stone chapel dedicated to the Virgen de
Chataquila, a Virgin-shaped stone dressed in a gown and placed on the altar. The chapel
was built from the local rock and blends in seamlessly with its surroundings.
From Chataquila look around on the south side of the road for an obvious notch in the
rock, which leads into a lovely pre-Hispanic route that descends steeply for 6km (three
hours) to the village of Chaunaca, 41km from Sucre. Lots of good paved sections remain
and it's easy to follow.
Chaunaca is home to a school, a tiny church and an interpretation and information cen-
ter on the Jal'qa region. Beds are available in the information center, but you'll have to
find your own food. There's also a campsite and the renovated colonial hacienda, Samay
Huasi ( 645-4129; per person B$300) , which offers pricey but high-quality accom-
modation. The cost includes three meals a day and transportation can be arranged for a
small fee. Slightly higher prices may apply if there are fewer than three people - ring to
check.
For a head start, camiones run the route from Sucre to Chaunaca and Chataquila, de-
parting from Av Juana Azurduy de Padilla. From Chaunaca you have the option of con-
tinuing west 15km direct to Potolo, or taking the very rewarding detour south via Maragua
and Humaca. The latter will add an extra day to your hike but takes in some sites of real
geological and paleontological interest.
INCAMACHAY & PUMAMACHAY
A worthwhile side trip from Chataquila or Chaunaca leads to two fascinating sets of an-
cient rock paintings estimated to be up to 2000 years old. At the first major curve on the
road west of Chataquila, a rugged track heads north along the ridge. For much of its
length the route is flanked by rugged rock formations, but it's relatively easygoing until
you've almost reached the paintings, where you face a bit of a scramble. The first set,
Pumamachay, lies well ensconced inside a rock cleft between two stone slabs. The picto-
graphs here depict humans and geometric shapes in monochrome black. A more impress-
ive panel, Incamachay, is 15 minutes further along beneath a rock overhang that contains
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