Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Behind the lake rises the cone of
Volcán Licancabur
(5960m), whose summit is said to
have once sheltered an ancient Inca
crypt
. Some tours include an ascent of Licancabur,
and although it presents no technical difficulties, the wind, temperature, altitude and ball-
bearing volcanic pumice underfoot make it quite grueling.
Where the route splits about 20km south of Sol de Mañana, the more scenic left fork
climbs up and over a 5000m pass, then up a stark hillside dotted with the enormous
Rocas
de Dalí
, which appear to have been meticulously placed by the surrealist master Salvador
himself.
CROSSING THE BORDER TO CHILE
Most tour agencies now offer cross-border connections to San Pedro de Atacama by arrangement with Chilean
operators. You'll make the connection not long after the Laguna Verde. Arrange this ahead of time with your oper-
ator. It may be wise to stop by Migración (
Click here
) in Uyuni before doing this. The Hito Cajón border post is
much more reliable than it used to be. They charge an exit tax of B$15 to B$30 here (B$21 is the standard), and
supposedly operate 24 hours a day. Try to be there before 6pm just to be on the safe side.
Around Salar de Uyuni
Some of the tour agencies are increasingly offering alternative tours of the Southwest Cir-
cuit. These customized trips are usually pricier than typical three-day jaunts but involve
visits to some less-visited attractions in Los Lípez and a real sense of discovery. This re-
gion is a land of bizarre lava formations, active volcanoes, abandoned villages, badlands,
salt flats, pre-Incan cave cemeteries, lone quinoa fields, flying condors, multicolored la-
goons and sulfur lakes. We've listed some of the places where you won't be surrounded
by packs of jeeps and other travelers, where the feel of the last frontier is true and real.
FROZEN FLAMINGOS
Three species of flamingo breed in the bleak high country of southwestern Bolivia, and once you've seen these
posers strutting through icy mineral lagoons at 5000m elevation, you'll abandon time-worn associations between
