Southern Altiplano - Bolivia - page 321

170km of rough bumping through marvelous landscapes, the road winds down to the
much-photographed Árbol de Piedra (Stone Tree) in the Desierto Siloli , 18km north of
Laguna Colorada. At the entrance to the lake, the Reserva Nacional de Fauna Andina
Eduardo Avaroa (REA; www.bolivia-rea.com ; admission B$150) has a station where you
can pick up informative materials, pay your fee, and learn more about local flora and
fauna.
The next attraction, Laguna Colorada is a rusty-burnt-orange-hued lake (4278m) that
covers approximately 60 sq km and reaches a depth of just 80cm. The rich red coloration
on the lake is derived from algae and plankton that thrive in the mineral-rich water, and
the shoreline is fringed with brilliant white deposits of sodium, magnesium, borax and
gypsum. The lake sediments are also rich in diatoms (tiny microfossils used in the produc-
tion of fertilizer, paint, toothpaste and plastics, and as a filtering agent for oil, pharmaceut-
icals, aviation fuel, beer and wine). More apparent are the flamingos that breed here; all
three South American species are present. The clear air is bitterly cold and winter night-
time temperatures can drop below -20°C.
Many tour groups end up spending the night not far from here in the village of
Huayajara , where basic hotels (sorry, no more salt ones) cost about B$30 per night. This
is the coldest night on the trip, as you're sleeping at around 4600m.
Hotel Tayka del Desierto ( 7202-0069; www.taykahoteles.com ; s/d US$100/110) is
a sumptuous offering not far from Laguna de Colorado.
On day three of the standard tour, you wake at dawn to visit the large geyser field
dubbed Sol de Mañana . This 4850m-high geyser basin has bubbling mud pots, hellish fu-
maroles and a thick and nauseating aroma of sulfur fumes. Approach the site cautiously;
any damp or cracked earth is potentially dangerous and cave-ins do occur, sometimes
causing serious burns.
At the foot of Cerro Polques lies the Termas de Polques , a small 29.4°C hot-spring
pool, and an absolute paradise after the chilly salar nights. Although they're not boiling
by any means, they're suitable for bathing, and the mineral-rich waters are thought to re-
lieve the symptoms of arthritis and rheumatism. There's a restaurant here, and changing
sheds with toilet facilities.
The stunning blue-green Laguna Verde (4400m) is tucked into the southwestern corner
of Bolivian territory, 52km south of Sol de Mañana. The incredible green color comes
from high concentrations of lead, sulfur, arsenic and calcium carbonates. In this exposed
position, an icy wind blows almost incessantly, whipping the water into a brilliant green-
and-white froth. This surface agitation, combined with the high mineral content, means
that it can remain liquid at temperatures as low as -21.2°C.