Lake Como & Around - The Italian Lakes - page 254

origins. This tiny village is dominated by the ruins of the 13th-century Castello di Vezio
( www.castellodivezio.it ; adult/child €4/2; 10am-6pm Mar-Oct) , a one-time fortified watchtower (part
of a chain of such towers erected along the lake in the Middle Ages and, in this case, the
successor to older forts since Roman times). From here, the views down upon Varenna
and over the lake are some of the best in Lake Como. A demonstration of falconry is
thrown in at about 4.30pm - otherwise you can see the raptors sitting in the shade before
the castle walls.
An old mule path from the Olivedo (north end) part of Varenna also leads up here - it's
a very steep 30-minute puff uphill.
The S road beyond makes for a pretty drive into the Val d'Esino, through the villages of
Perledo , Esino Lario and Parlasco (which has tarted itself up with more than a dozen frescoes
on the walls of its stone houses), where it runs into Valsassina.
WORTH A TRIP
A HIDDEN EATING GEM
Tucked away in the hamlet of Maggiana, signposted 3km uphill from lakeside Mandello del Lario (home to the
legendary Moto Guzzi motorcycle manufacturer), Sale e Tabacchi ( 0341 73 37 15;
www.osteriasalietabacchi.it ; Piazza San Rocco 3, Maggiana; meals €25-30; noon-2.30pm & 6.30-10pm Wed-
Sun, noon-2.30pm Mon) is an eatery that has appeared in countless Italian good-food guides but could hardly be
better disguised. The post office, bar and tobacco store also has a modest dining room situated off to one side,
filled with dark timber tables. In the summer months, lake fish dominates the menu - try the perch risotto. Just
behind the restaurant is a medieval watchtower, where they say Holy Roman Emperor Frederick Barbarossa
stayed in 1158 - too soon for him to try the risotto.