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( 031 2 33 91; Palace Hotel, Lungo Lario Trieste 16; gelato €1.50-4; noon-midnight) For generations,
Comaschi have turned to Ceccato for their Sunday afternoon gelato and then embarked on
a ritual passeggiata (evening stroll) with the dripping cones along the lakeshore. You can
do no better than imitate them: order a creamy stracciatella (chocolate chip) or perhaps a
mix of fresh fruit flavours and head off for a relaxed promenade along the lakefront.
Osteria del Gallo
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ITALIAN €€
( 031 27 25 91; www.osteriadelgallo-como.it ; Via Vitani 16; meals €25-30; 12.30-3pm Mon, to 9pm Tue-Sat)
This ageless osteria is a must. Cheerful green and white gingham is draped over the little
timber tables and all around are shelves of wine and other goodies. The menu is recited by
staff (in French, if you wish) and might include a first of giant ravioli, followed by lightly
fried lake fish. Otherwise, pop by for a glass of wine.
ITALIAN €€
Enoteca 84
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( 031 27 04 82; Via Milano 84; meals €20-25; noon-2.30pm & 7-10pm Fri & Sat, noon-2.30pm Mon-Thu)
Down one side of this minuscule locale are lined-up tables; down the other are shelves of
fine wine. The menu changes often, and ranges from platters of cold meats and cheeses to
Lombard classics such as pizzoccheri artigianali (handmade buckwheat tagliatelle ).
Ristorante Sociale
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ITALIAN €€
( 031 26 40 42; www.ristorantesociale.it ; Via Rodari 6; meals €20-25; noon-2.30pm & 7-10.30pm Wed-Mon)
Once attached to a nearby theatre, the Sociale is a local institution. The present location
has a pleasant downstairs dining area with reasonably packed tables and an upstairs dining
room sporting an outsized baroque fireplace and walls enlivened by frescoes. In addition
to the menu, the waiter will announce a constantly changing series of dishes of the day.
Cooking is hearty and no-nonsense.
Trattoria dei Combattenti
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TRATTORIA €€
( 031 27 05 74; www.trattoriadeicombattenti.com ; Via Balestra 5/9; meals €30-35; 12.15-2.30pm &
7.30-10.15pm Tue-Sat, 12.15-2.30pm Sun & Mon; ) Set off a lovely cobblestone lane just inside the
old city walls, this popular trattoria has inside timber tables with muted decor, an inner
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