Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
THE GREY WOLF
Sustained hunting over 1000 years led to the eventual disappearance of wolves (
Canis lupus
) from France in
1930. Then, in 1992, two 'funny-looking dogs' were spotted near Utelle. Since then, wolves have been making a
comeback, loping across the Italian Alps. Unlike the beasts of fairy tales, these wolves are wary - they'll run
away if they detect you. However, you're guaranteed a glimpse at the wild animal reserve Wolf Watch at
Alpha
(
04 93 02 33 69;
www.alpha-loup.com
;
Le Boréon; adult/child €12/10; 10am-6pm; )
, where you can
trek along (easy) trails to spot wolves from viewing huts. In winter, Alpha rents cross-country skis and showshoes
for exploring.
Vallée de la Vésubie
The Mercantour's heart, the Vésubie was formerly the private hunting reserve of King
Victor Emanuel II of Italy. This kept the land pristine and biologically diverse: the kernel
from which the national park grew. Because of Nice's day-trip proximity, this is the park's
most-visited sector (depart early). It's also the western gateway to the Merveilles. The fol-
lowing are in south-north order.
The
Gorges de la Vésubie
mark the valley's southern end. For a bird's-eye perspective,
head for pilgrimage site
La Madone d'Utelle
(1181m), settled by 9th-century Spanish
sailors; it's crowned with a chapel. From mountain village
St-Jean la Rivière
(on the
D2565), a stone bridge crosses the River Var, where a steep, winding mountain pass (the
D32) leads west to
Utelle
(population 489), 6km northeast of La Madone.
About 18km north of St-Jean, via the D2565, just past the turnoff for La Bollène-
Vésubie, you can detour east along the snaking D171 to
Belvédère
(elevation 820m), a
hilltop village with a cute dairy museum. In nearby
Roquebillière
, there's a thermal-
spring spa for massages and soaks,
Thermes de Berthemont-les-Bains
( 04 93 03 47
00;
www.valvital.eu
;
from €45; Apr-Oct)
.
Principal town and outdoor-activity base
St-Martin-Vésubie
(population 1100, eleva-
tion 1000m), an hour from Nice, feels like the Swiss Alps, and there's life after dark.
Es-
capade Bureau des Guides
( 04 93 03 31 32;
www.guidescapade.com
;
place du
Marché, St-Martin-Vésubie; Jul & Aug)
organises walks, climbs, and canyoning ex-
cursions, and guides walks into Vallée des Merveilles (the essential map: IGN No
3741OT). For bird's-eye village views, ascend the D31 to Venanson (elevation 1164m), a
rock-perched hamlet above St-Martin.
