Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
LE GRAND LUBERON
Marking the great divide between Petit Luberon (to the west) and Grand Luberon (to the
east), the deep Combe de Lourmarin cuts a near-perpendicular north-south swathe through
the massif, from Bonnieux to Lourmarin - the (winding) back way to Aix-en-Provence. To
its east, Le Grand Luberon comprises dramatic gorges, forested peaks and grand fortresses.
Come summer, lavender scents the breeze.
Buoux
Dominated by the hilltop ruins of
Fort de Buoux
, the tiny village of Buoux (the 'x' is pro-
nounced softly) sits across the divide from Bonnieux, 8km south of Apt. As a traditional
Protestant stronghold, Buoux was destroyed in 1545 and again in 1660. Explore on foot the
fort and old village ruins (perilous in places due to loose rocks); painted white arrows mark
a return route via a spectacular spiralling staircase cut in the rock.
Local climbing club
Améthyste
( 04 90 74 05 92;
http://amethyste1901.free.fr
)
or-
ganises rock-climbing and walks.
At the base of rocky cliffs in a valley criss-crossed by hiking trails, off-the-beaten-path
Auberge des Seguins
( 04 90 74 16 37;
www.aubergedesseguins.com
; dm/d with half-
board per person €38/58, lunch/dinner €10/24; Mar-mid-Nov, lunch & dinner daily
May-Sep, no weekday lunch spring & autumn; )
feels like summer camp, with two
pools (one for kids), fireside game room and convivial dining room. Four stone-walled
buildings house simple, great-value rooms (no TVs) and a dorm for budgeteers. The on-site
restaurant serves fresh, local produce in its Provençal cooking. It's a winding 2.5km below
Buoux.
Auberge de la Loube
( 04 90 74 19 58; lunch/dinner menu from €22/28; closed
Mon, Thu & Jan)
is a classic for summertime garden lunches, which start with wicker trays
filled with
hors d'oeuvres Provençaux
- tapenade (olive dip), anchoïade (anchovy sauce),
quail eggs, sliced melon, fresh figs… Save room for succulent roast lamb, and allow plenty
of time to savour the experience, especially at the legendary Sunday-lunch feasts. Cash
only (no ATMs in Buoux). Twenty-four-hour advance reservations required. Dapper owner
Monsieur Maurice collects 19th-century carriages, drawn by gorgeous horses with impec-
cably pulled manes - his passion. Look for him rolling around town between mealtimes,
and tip your hat his way.
