Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
FOOD
On the crossroads of Arab caravans, bringing spices from India and rice from Egypt,
Jordan's hybrid cuisine has absorbed many traditions from its neighbours, particularly from
Turkey and Lebanon. Jordan's home-grown fresh fruit and vegetables are a highlight.
There are two distinct cuisines in Jordan, which for argument's sake we'll call Pan-Arab
and Bedouin.
Pan-Arab
The day starts for most Jordanians with a breakfast of eggs and locally produced olives,
cheese, sour cream and
foul madamas
(fava-bean dish with olive oil) and, of course, bread.
Arabic unleavened bread,
khobz,
is so ubiquitous at mealtimes it is sometimes called
a'aish
(life). A favourite breakfast staple is bread liberally sprinkled with
zaatar
(thyme blend) or
sesame-encrusted rings of bread, which often come with a boiled egg.
Lunch is usually the main meal of the day, which could ex-
plain the habit of nap-taking in the afternoons. Invariably, lunch
involves rice or potatoes and includes some form of seasonal
vegetable, prepared as a slow-cooking stew with a meat bone or
chicken. In a restaurant, or for a special occasion,
maqlubbeh
may be on the menu: a pyramid of steaming rice garnished with
cardamom and sultanas, and topped with slivers of onion, meat,
cauliflower and fresh herbs such as thyme or parsley.
The evening meal is a ragged affair of competing interests -
children snacking over schoolwork, mothers preparing dishes
for surprise visitors and fathers sneaking out for a kebab with
friends. At the weekend, Jordanians go out as a family. In cities
that could mean a Thai curry, while in small towns it will be the
chef's special. In an Arab-style restaurant, the evening is whiled away over mezze - a vari-
ety of exquisite little delicacies such as peppery rucola (rocket) leaves, aromatic chopped
livers, spicy eggplant (aubergine) dips or a dish of freshly peeled almonds.
Cheese
Jordan is locally famous for its dairy
products, especially salty white
cheese. A popular soft white cheese is
kashkawan
(or
kishkeh
) while
haloumi
and Lebanese-style
shinklish
have a firmer texture.
