Amman - Jordan - page 170

the hillside on the left to a facade cut into the rock. Known as Ad-Deir (monastery; Click
here ) , it most likely served as an elaborate medieval dovecote.
If you continue for a further 6km, you'll come to the caves of Iraq al-Amir (Caves of
the Prince). The caves are arranged in two tiers - the upper tier forms a long gallery (par-
tially damaged during a mild earthquake in 1999) along the cliff face. The 11 caves were
once used as cavalry stables, though locals have taken to using them to house their goats
and store fodder. Steps lead up to the caves from the paved road - keep an eye out for the
ancient Hebrew inscription near the entrance.
Opposite the caves is the village of Iraq al-Amir, home to the Iraq al-Amir Handicraft
Village Offline map ( 8am-4pm, closed Fri) , selling handmade pottery, fabrics, car-
pets and paper products. The project was founded by the Noor al-Hussein Foundation, and
employs many women from the surrounding area. Profits are returned to the community.
About 700m further down the road, just visible from the caves, is the small but impress-
ive Qasr al-Abad Offline map (Palace of the Slave; admission free; daylight hours) .
Despite appearances and indeed its name, it was most likely built as a fortified villa rather
than a military fort. Its precise age isn't known, though it's thought that it was built by
Hyrcanus of the powerful Jewish Tobiad family sometime between 187 and 175 BC. Al-
though never completed, much of the palace has been reconstructed, and it remains an im-
pressive site.
The palace was built from some of the biggest blocks of any ancient structure in the
Middle East - the largest is 7m by 3m. The blocks were only 20cm or so thick, making the
whole edifice quite flimsy, and susceptible to the earthquake that flattened it in AD 362.
Today, the setting and the animal carvings on the exterior walls are the highlights. Look
for the carved panther fountain on the ground floor, the eroded eagles on the corners and
the lioness with cubs on the upper storey of the back side.
The gatekeeper will open the interior, as well as a small museum (which includes draw-
ings of what the complex once looked like) for a tip of JD1. If he's not around, ask for the
miftah (key) at the small shop near the gate.
Getting There & Away
Minibuses leave regularly from the Muhajireen bus station (Al-Ameerah Basma bin
Talal St, Amman) for Wadi as-Seer village (300 fils, 30 minutes) and less frequently from
the Raghadan bus station in downtown. From Wadi as-Seer, take another minibus - or
walk about 10km, mostly downhill - to the caves. Look for the signpost to the Iraq al-
Amir Handicraft Village, which is virtually opposite the stairs to the caves. Alternatively