Amman - Jordan - page 171

take bus 26 from Shabsough St in downtown to its terminus and then change to a bus for
Wadi as-Seer or take a taxi. From the caves, it's an easy stroll down to the qasr (but a little
steep back up).
If you're driving, head west from 8th Circle and follow the main road, which twists
through Wadi as-Seer village.
Cave of Seven Sleepers (Ahl al-Kahf)
The legend of the 'seven sleepers' has several parallels throughout literature. It involves
seven Christian boys who were persecuted by the Roman Emperor Trajan, then escaped to
a cave and slept there for 309 years. This is one of several locations (the most famous be-
ing Ephesus in Turkey) that claim to be that cave. Inside the main cave (admission free;
8am-6pm) - also known as Ahl al-Kahf (Cave of the People) - are eight smaller tombs
that are sealed, though one has a hole in it through which you can see a creepy collection
of human bones. Above and below the cave are the remains of two mosques. About 500m
west of the cave is a large Byzantine cemetery , the tombs of which are sadly full of rub-
bish.
The cave is to the right of a large new mosque complex in the village of Rajib, off the
road from Amman to Sabah. Buses from Amman to Sabah pass 500m from the mosque;
catch them at Wahadat bus station (less than 500 fils, 15 minutes). Alternatively, take a
minibus from Quraysh St in downtown, ask for 'al-Kahf' and the driver will show you
where to get off to change for a Sabah bus. The easiest way there is by chartered taxi
(around JD8 each way).
Fuheis
06 / POP >5000 / ELEV 1050M
Just 15km northwest of Amman, this pleasant village is famous for fruit growing and,
somewhat incongruously, cement production. First built in about 2000 BC, Fuheis is now
a largely Christian village, with several Orthodox and Catholic churches . The main reas-
on for a visit, however, is to have lunch or dinner in the town's celebrated restaurant.
The Jordanian cuisine at the Zuwwadeh Restaurant ( 4721528; mains JD6-14;
10am-midnight) is delicious, especially the fatteh (fried bread) with hummus, meat or
chicken and pine nuts - the 'wedding fatteh ' is complemented by tomato and cardamom.