Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Cafes
Some of the cafes in downtown are perfect retreats to write up your journal, tweet a
friend, smoke a scented nargileh, meet locals and play cards or backgammon - or to
simply watch the world go by. The first group of cafes listed here are generally men only;
women, while not unwelcome, may feel uncomfortable.
MOSTLY MEN
Auberge Café
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(Al-Amir Mohammed St, downtown; 10am-midnight) One floor below the Cliff Hotel
this gritty Jordanian spot is popular with local men. You'll have to make your way
through the tobacco haze to reach the balcony, which overlooks the main street. You'll
have to fight with the regulars to sit there, mind.
COFFEEHOUSE
Peace Café
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( 079 5297912; Al-Amir Mohammed St, downtown; 9am-midnight) Try to ignore
the filthy staircase on your way up to this utterly basic smoking den. If you can land one
of the two balcony tables overlooking the street, you'll have one of the prime vantage
points in downtown. As with the Auberge Café, do it like the locals - puff at a nargileh
(JD2.500) and just watch the world go by.
COFFEEHOUSE
WOMEN WELCOME
Downtown, around Hashemite Sq and along Hashemi St, the dozen or more cafes attract
locals and tourists alike, especially in summer. The place to be seen at night is anywhere
around Abdoun Circle where there are plenty of cool cafes. Take local advice - fashions
change frequently in this part of Amman.
Al-Rashid Court Café
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CAFE
( 4652994; Al-Malek Faisal St, downtown; tea or coffee from JD3; 10am-midnight
Sat-Thu, 1-11pm Fri) The 1st-floor balcony here is the place to pass an afternoon and sur-
vey the chaos of the downtown area below, though competition for seats is fierce. Also
known as the Eco-Tourism Café, this is one of the best places for the uninitiated to try a
nargileh (JD2). Although you won't see any local women here, it's well accustomed to
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