Travel Reference
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foreign tourists. To find it, look for the flags of the world on the main facade; the entrance
is down the side alley.
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Books@café
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( 4650457; Omar bin al-Khattab; mains JD5-12; 10am-midnight) You may need to
keep your sunglasses on when you enter this establishment - the retro floral walls and
beaded curtains in psychedelic colours are a fun if dazzling throwback to the '70s. This is
typical modern Jordanian coffeehouse chic and the tasty global food is far less interesting
than the hip young Jordanians lounging on sofas in corners or with their noses in a new
book. The on-site bookshop stocks Lonely Planet titles.
Darat al-Funun Café
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(Nimer bin Adwan St, downtown; snacks from JD1; 10am-7pm Sat-Thu) In the heart of
a cultural centre, this is a peaceful place to escape from downtown, especially as it's sur-
rounded by a garden and the ruins of a Byzantine church. Lawrence wrote part of Seven
Pillars of Wisdom in the neighbouring house so who knows what creative spirits linger
here. Closed during Ramadan.
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Shaher's Penthouse Cafeteria
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(Sahat al-Malek Faysal al-Awal St, downtown; coffee JD3; 9.30am-11pm) This cosy
cafe has a traditionally decorated indoor dining area as well as an outdoor terrace over-
looking the street far below. Hussein, the resident musician, will happily play the oud
(lute) or violin to provide a cultured counterpoint to the street noise below.
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Al Hail Restaurant & Café
( 78-6702270; Hashemite Sq, downtown; 9am-midnight) A glass of mint tea (JD3)
here comes with perhaps the best view of the Citadel on offer downtown. It's an unpreten-
tious place, despite the decorative well in the front garden, and it's popular with locals in
the evening when the neighbouring theatre is illuminated.
Al-Sendabad Coffee Shop
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