Trondheim - Norway - page 355

An Escapist's Retreat Moments

The Ringve Botaniske Hage (Ringve Botanical Gardens) lie on Lade
Allé 58 ( & 73-59-22-69 ) and form part of the University of Trondheim's
Museum of Natural History and Archaeology. This is one of the finest
places to be on a summer day in Norway. You can wander through a
historic and Renaissance-style herb garden, enjoying the trees of the
Northern Hemisphere. The entire park is laid out in the English garden
style. Head for the nearest bench—and the day is yours. The admis-
sion-free park is open all year.

military architect, Vauban. Between 1816 and 1901, it functioned as the head-
quarters of Trondheim's firefighting brigades. Under the Nazi occupation, the
fort was used as a place of execution for members of the Norwegian Resistance;
a plaque has been erected in their memory. On warm days, expect to see sun-
bathers and families with children playing on the verdant lawns that have
replaced the muddy, pounded-earth floor of the historical fort. From its ram-
parts, you'll see what some locals define as the best panorama in town,

encompassing fjords, towers, and the rest of Trondheim.
Rosenborg. No phone. Free admission. Daily 24 hr. Bus: 63.
Nidaros Domkirke (Cathedral of Trondheim) Dating from the
11th century, this cathedral is the most important, most historic, and most
impressive ecclesiastical building in Scandinavia. It's located in the town center,
near the Rådhus. The burial place of the medieval Norwegian kings, it was also
the site of the coronation of Haakon VII in 1905, an event that marked the
beginning of modern Norway.
Construction actually began on the cathedral in 1070, and some of its oldest
parts still remain, mainly from the middle of the 1100s. Following the battle of
Stiklestad, King Olaf Haraldson was entombed under the high altar. In time,
Olaf became Saint Olaf, and his remains were encased in a gem-studded shrine.
The cathedral has weathered several unfortunate events. It's been a victim of
several fires that swept over Trondheim. The church was reconstructed each time
in its original Gothic style. (The section around the transept, however, is
Romanesque.) During the Reformation, the cathedral was looted of precious
relics. By 1585, Nidaros had been reduced to the status of a parish church.
Around 1869 major reconstruction work was begun to return the gray sand-
stone building to its former glory.
The west facade is particularly impressive, with its carved figures of royalty
and saints. It's especially appealing after dark, when the facade is floodlit (the
lights usually stay on every evening till midnight—it's worth a stroll even if you
have to make a detour to do it). The interior is a maze of mammoth pillars and
columns with beautifully carved arches that divide the chancel from the nave.
The grandest feature is the stunning rose window . The cathedral's stained-
glass windows , when caught in the proper light, are reason enough to visit.
Gustav Vigeland, the famous sculptor, carved the gargoyles and grotesques
for the head tower and northern transept. A small museum inside displays the
crown jewels of Norway.