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around 6pm, the cozy and somewhat sedate venue of coffee, tea, and pastries is
transformed into a more hip, adult, and permissive venue of a liquor bar. The
consistently most famous client here, a regular, is celebrity artist Håkon Bleken,
a huge name in Norway's world of contemporary painting and portraitist for
members of the royal families of Norway and Sweden. Don't expect the culinary
variety and sophistication of a bona-fide restaurant—instead, what you'll get is
cheerful and amiable service, several kinds of coffee and tea, and pastries, burg-
ers, quiches, pastas, and salads.
Nordre Gate 8. & 73-87-45-50. Salads, sandwiches, pastas, quiches, and burgers 59NOK-108NOK
($8.40-$15). AE, DC, MC, V. Mon-Thurs 9am-1am; Fri 9am-2am; Sat 9:30am-2am. Bus: 1 or 4.
Kafe Choco Boco DRINKS/PASTRIES There are several branch locations
throughout town for this chocolate-obsessed cafe, but this is the hot address (see
below), attracting young people, most often university students, to its precincts.
Once there they not only devour varm chocolade, but several other chocolate
drinks, including one rather horrifying sweet concoction made with marshmal-
lows. Mint and caramel also flavor these chocolate drinks. For the non-choco-
late lover, there are plenty of other items on the menu, including sandwiches,
freshly made salads ranging from Greek to Caesar, a fresh soup of the day, and
bagels and freshly made cakes, muffins, and brownies. There is also an on-site
art gallery, featuring revolving exhibitions of local talent.
Nedre Bakklandet 5. & 73-50-43-35. Reservations not necessary. Sandwiches 89NOK-98NOK ($13-$14);
chocolate drinks 33NOK-37NOK ($4.70-$5.25); cakes 15NOK-42NOK ($2.15-$5.95). MC, V. Daily
11am-2:30am. Bus: 1 or 4.
4 Seeing the Sights
Erkebispegården (Archbishop's Palace) Lying close to the cathedral
precincts, this is the oldest secular building in Scandinavia, having been started
in the second part of the 1100s. Until the Reformation came in 1537 and the
ruling archbishop got the boot, this palace was the home of every reigning eccle-
siastical authority in Trondheim. Once the archbishops were gone, it became the
official address for the Danish governors, and was later taken over by the Nor-
wegian military. Today it's one of the best-preserved buildings of its type in
Europe. On-site is the Archbishop's Palace Museum, featuring original sculp-
tures from Nidaros Cathedral (see below) along with archaeological discoveries
from the palace site. You can see, for example, the coin workshop just as archae-
ologists discovered it.
The Lavetthuset section of the museum features temporary art exhibitions,
and the palace also has its own medieval chapel, which was consecrated in 1997.
Kongsgårdsgata. & 73-53-91-60. Admission 35NOK ($4.95) adults, 20NOK ($2.85) children. June 14-Aug
15 Mon-Fri 10am-5pm, Sat 10am-3pm, Sun noon-5pm; Aug 16-June 13 Mon-Sat 11am-3pm, Sun
noon-4pm. Bus: 2, 5, 6, 7, or 9.
Kristiansen Festnung Located about 2km (1 1 4 miles) east of the center of
town, this is a stone-sided, thick-walled vestige of the military power of what-
ever army happened to be occupying Trondheim during the 17th and 18th cen-
turies. Built by the Danes between 1681 and 1682 as a defense against the
Swedes during the reign of Christian IV, it alone is credited with repelling the
attacks of the Swedish army in 1718, and thereby saving Trondheim from “for-
eign” occupation. It was built according to the most advanced military wisdom
of its day, in a nine-sided design that might have been influenced by the French
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